Ari Moyang of the Mah Meri, Kampung Sungai Bumbun

The Mah Meri of Kampung Sungai Bumbun in Pulau Carey celebrated their Ari Moyang/Hari Moyang (Spirits/Ancestors Day) on the 20th March this year. It was a day of thanksgiving to their guardian and ancestral spirits and they were most gracious to share the occasion with many visitors and tourists including a busload of local secondary school children and three busloads of (very fervent) Indians.

                                          Shamidah and Suhaila greeting visitors

                                          Decorated archway to the first Rumah Moyang

At the Rumah Moyang or Spirit House, the Mah Meri villagers were not the only ones who sought the blessings of the spirits through the Batin/poyang. The fervent Indians jumped the queue to do so, much to the chagrin of other visitors.

But true to their peaceful and non-confrontational nature, we noticed the local Mah Meri youths lining up to be blessed only after the bulldozing visitors have had their turn!

Food is potluck on Ari Moyang. All families in the village contribute to the buffet spread. Likewise, visitors are encouraged to 'bring a plate' so that there will be enough food to go around.

To celebrate with the spirits, the Mayin Jo-oh dancers and musicians provided the entertainment with seven song-and-dance displays. Suffice to say cameras were clicking and whirring incessantly throughout.

A and I took the opportunity to talk to the masked dancers during their break. The men behind the masks? Sazali Halim wears the Moyang Pongkol mask while Fizal 'Ijal' anak Layon wears the Puteri Gunung Ledang mask. Masks are passed down from fathers to sons.

The celebration of Ari Moyang in Kampung Sungai Bumbun is at three sites, where the Rumah Moyang are. (Historically, there existed three settlements, hence the three spirit houses).

The second site was quite a walking distance away. Here, as at the first Rumah Moyang, many sought the blessings of the spirits through the poyang/shamans. The celebration of Ari Moyang also entails that the Mah Meri do not do paid work for three days.

(In progress)

Batu Pahat and 'Mee Racun' Part 2

My taste of Johor continues in Batu Pahat (after Johor Bahru) with the unique 'poison noodles' or Mee Racun. This three-generation-old concoction may be enjoyed from three eatery outlets and my Bro AG got our takeaway dinner from the eatery below (serendipitously captured when I clicked the camera randomly as B and I arrived into Batu Pahat town).    

The next day we were treated to lunch at the cafe/bakery, Cuppacake B'Licious in Taman Flora Utama, BP. Although their specialty are cakes obviously, my sister-in-law recommended their Laksa Johor and Asam Pedas. We had both, and the dishes were rather delicious although I still think that the best Laksa Johor was the one made by my sister-in-law's mum a long time ago when we visited Batu Pahat the very first time in 1990.

After our lunch we went on a short tour of Batu Pahat town, stopping by the rather kitschy 'chisel and rock' monument in the town square. Kitschy or not, of course we abadikan the moment at this BP landmark and its surrounds.

We also noted the many new shop lots, three big shopping malls and new housing estates for BP's 500,000 residents. Looks like big-time development has come to this one-time sleepy, backwater town of Johor.

Later, on our way back to get on to the North-South highway (and home), passing through town again, we did spot a spruced-up Crystal Inn where I'd stayed in 2008 to attend Bro AG's daughter's wedding reception. Oh, also that rather infamous hotel The Katerina, which involved a certain politician in a certain incriminating video there. But of course I don't remember who and what?! I must be suffering from selective amnesia!

28 Feb-1st Mar 2015

Batu Pahat and 'Mee Racun' Part 1

                                             Floating hands chisel a rock in Batu Pahat

After the International Kite Festival in Pasir Gudang (Johor), we drove up to Batu Pahat town, second largest urban area after Johor Bahru. Because we have family there - my Bro AG and his Batu Pahat born-and-bred wife. Batu Pahat is also known as Bandar Penggaram, both conveniently 'BP'. But Batu Pahat is also the district which includes BP and Yong Peng.

Anyway Batu Pahat means "chiselled stone/rock" and local history (or legend more likely) has it that this name was gotten in the 15th century when an invading Siamese army chiseled rocks at the coastal village of Kampung Minyak Beku (another legendary story to this name?), in the hope of finding fresh water. Another story is about the Portuguese building a fortress of granite rocks from quarries near the (Batu Pahat) river mouth.

My Bro AG's late father-in-law was a local historian of sorts but unfortunately I never had the opportunity to find out more about Batu Pahat from him*.

Now on to the food, yum yum. Only quite recently, I had heard and read about the famous 'Mee Racun' (or poison noodles!) in Batu Pahat. So that very evening, we got to taste this uniquely-named noodles cooked in a chili & tomato-based sauce and enhanced with bones. Huge 'gearbox' bones with some meat, and marrow you can suck out with a straw! So, so sedap! (Thank you Bro AG for sportingly going out to buy this especially for us. We were too tired to bother to dress up and leave your beautiful home to get to the Mee Racun eatery.)   To be continued...

* Note: My librarian DNA says I have to get on with doing more research about BP. I will update when possible.

Muzium Layang-Layang at Pasir Gudang

Here are some pictures of the rather unique Muzium Layang-Layang (Kite Museum) and its exhibits at Pasir Gudang, Johor.

Our very own beautiful kites...

Posters of the annual international kite festivals since the very first 20 years ago...

Kites from around the world... Australia, Japan, China, etc., etc.

How to makes kites...

28 February 2015

International Kite Festival at Pasir Gudang, Johor

The International Kite Festival at Pasir Gudang, Johor is in its 20th year in 2015, held recently on the 25th February till 1st March. But for me, it is the first time ever that I was able to gaze in awe at all the flying 'objects' in the dusky evening of the 27th, and the next day in the blue skies, on the hilly fields of Bukit Layang-Layang, Pasir Gudang*. It may have been pretty hot in the day, but the cooling breezes make it bearable. Kites need winds to fly after all!

The formal opening ceremony of the Festival (graced by the Tunku Mahkota Johor) was held in the evening of 27th February. There were kites with led lights flying above and fireworks lit up the balmy Johor night sky for a good 8 minutes!

The international participants number around 180 from about 40 countries, among them Turkey, Bhutan, Slovenia, Japan, China, Thailand, Indonesia, etc., etc.

Being at this Festival has made me realise that kites come in so many shapes, forms and sizes. Of course, apart from the interesting and colourful kites in the air, there are the various goodies on the ground to shop for. There are kites galore, and food, food, food and even fruits on a tree! (No, the fruits on the tree below are for decor only to advertise the Orchard/Fruit Farm concerned). There are also cultural and artistic activities you can do, like making capal (leather slippers), batik painting (like we did), etc., etc.  You can also visit the Muzium Layang-Layang Pasir Gudang (Kite Museum), which is conveniently on site.

* Pasir Gudang is an industrial town located 35 km east of Johor Bahru, and at the eastern end of Johor Bahru metropolitan area. Population 100,000. (Wiki).

27 & 28 February 2015

Appeasing the Sea Spirits at Pulau Carey Part 2

The Puja Pantai ritual got underway when the tide ebbed and revealed part of the sea bed of the Straits of Malacca. Three 'shamans' led the way to the shrine there which moments ago was partly submerged in water.

Traversing the mudflats through the mangrove stumps was a pretty dicey affair but the sure-footed ones helped others along. For the masked dancer Diaman, it was easy-peasy so he was all smiles getting to the shrine while assisting others (including moi) along.

Three 'shamans' conducted the ritual, two (representing the Moyang Bate' and Moyang Gabus?) very obviously in a state of trance. Offerings of chamai (betel leaves), areca nuts and tobacco (among other things) were made to appease the spirits of the sea and pray for a bountiful year.

Then the celebratory dance of Mayin Jo-oh was performed by youthful dancers who were then joined by all the other children present. The chief 'shaman' kept a watchful eye on the children and the ceremony ended with him blessing them as they queued to clasp his hands.

He was joined by the other two 'shamans' and together they blessed all the Mah Meri villagers among the spectators who came up to them.

23 February 2015