My Sri Lanka: On the Road to the South

After Colombo, we went on a road trip down to the southern beaches, in our quest to find Sri Lanka's iconic stilt fishermen. The south coast was highly damaged by the 2004 tsunami, but international aid has rebuilt most of the affected areas. The railway tracks that hugged the coast are being rebuilt and the trains are expected to run again when completed.

Our first stop was the Kosgoda Spice and Herbal Garden where spice, herbal and medicinal plants used in Ayurvedic medicines were pointed out to us. Most were familiar, and the spice tea we were served was much appreciated. One teaspoonful of spice tea contains cardamom, ginger, cinnamon, and coriander with hill country tea. Natural vanilla oil sweetens it slightly. This spice tea is supposed to 'stimulate the body ... effective against phlegmatic diseases and stomach disorders'.

A very stimulating cup of spice tea (CNB 2012)

At Balapitiya, we went on a two hour cruise on the Madu Ganga. This International Ramsar wetland site has a network of lagoons and 64 islands. We were able to observe the interesting fauna (eagles, kingfishers, iguanas, monkeys, even jellyfish!) and flora along the river, and the human activities carried on there. At Cinnamon Island, we saw how the cinnamon tree was grown and the leaves and branches harvested. A tilapia rearing project was carried out at a floating farm.

The mangrove trees of the Madu Ganga (CNB 2012)

'Processing' a cinnamon branch on Cinnamon Island (CNB 2012)

One of numerous blue jelly fishes found at this Ramsar site -
quite surreal! (CNB 2012)

Among the mangroves (Saman 2012)

For lunch we stopped by the beach resort of Hikkaduwa for a seafood meal at Mamas Coral Beach Restaurant. Here at Hikkaduwa there are glass-bottom boats that take visitors out to see the coral gardens, the fishes and sea turtles at the marine sanctuary in the Indian Ocean. But I was outvoted about going out on the boat because it was far too hot then under the blazing sun.

We stopped by the 16th century Dutch fortifications at Galle. But unfortunately it was a very, very short stop and we definitely missed a lot of the much touted 'whimsical, medieval European town unexpectedly deposited in the tropics'.

Boys sharing their lunch packets at the Dutch fort, overlooking the
Galle International Cricket Stadium (CNB 2012)

We reached Weligama rather too late to see any stilt fishermen, but were just in time to catch a beautiful sunset - only it was on the wrong side of our accomodation, the Bay Beach Weligama. Anyway this meant that we got a nice sunrise over the bay instead.

Sunrise over Weligama Bay (CNB 2012)

Early morning fish stall at Weligama (CNB 2012)

Then we set out early (before breakfast) to the sites where stilt fishing was carried on. At the first site we found only the stilts! Then further on there was a lone fisherman, and then there were another two at Ahangama. Note: As soon as the fishermen realise that they are being photographed, they very, very quickly get down from their stilts and approach you for (Rupee) handouts. Anyway, the photo opp is ... priceless!

Stilts without fishermen! (CNB 2012)

A lone stilt fisherman (CNB 2012)

Two stilt fishermen at Ahangama (CNB 2012)

On our way back to Colombo, about 7 km inland off Galle Road at Mitiyagoda, we visited a moonstone mine. Very 18th century, these mines are 6/7 metre long muddy holes. The moonstone is a rather unique semi precious stone found in Sri Lanka and have been mined here in the forests forever. The process of filtering, cutting and polishing the stones can be observed and you can then buy these beautiful stones in the on-site shop.

Working a moonstone mine (CNB 2012)

Polished moonstones (CNB 2012)

We also visited the Sea Turtle Project, a turtle nursery and sanctuary at Bentota. There were Green, Ridley as well as Hawksbill turtles; some only a day old, some older and some that were 'handicapped' (blind, minus one or two limbs, also a rare albino).

The little turtles at Bentota (CNB 2012)

The trip to the south and back (to Colombo) was indeed eventful, complemented with the many picturesque golden beaches and swaying coconut palms by the turquoise blue waters of the Indian Ocean.

Coconut palms by the coast (CNB 2012)

15-21 March 2012