My Sabah: Semporna revisited

We were in Semporna last month for the 19th Annual Regatta Lepa to relive the experience of the festive carnival atmosphere there (we were there for the first time last year, do check out my previous Sabah blog entries). Again, we took the opportunity to explore this coastal town and its attractions both old and new. We made a brief visit to one of the 40 islands off Semporna - Mataking. Our Sabah trip this time concluded with a shopping stopover in Tawau before flying home.

Semporna was gaily decorated with the Bajau sambulayang flags beginning on the road from Tawau airport into the town. In the town area, there were numerous posters and buntings advertising the Regatta. The carnival atmosphere was definitely contributed by the increased population milling around in the area, attracted to the numerous programmes planned and stalls set up to celebrate the annual Regatta.

The sambulayang welcomes all visitors to Semporna for the
19th Regatta Lepa (CNB 2012)

Banners at the town roundabout (CNB 2012)

The opening of the new public library was officiated during the festive period between 17-22 April 2012.

The new public library & its sambulayang (CNB 2012)

The appropriately named Menara U.S.I.A. near the town roundabout is reputedly the oldest building in Semporna.

Another new addition to Semporna's attractions is the Tun Sakaran Dandai Museum. The Museum exhibits include the traditional lepa, placed just outside the building. The life of the Tun as an illustrious son of Semporna is recounted in the picture exhibits.

Prow of the lepa on exhibit at the Tun Sakaran Dandai
Museum (CNB 2012)

Tun Sakaran in 1954

Some of the 64,000 Bajau of Semporna who live in the water villages seem to lead a very idyllic laid-back life. With the sea under one's verandah, how can life be anything else? Heck, the sea is under one's whole abode here in Semporna.

Water villagers on their 'verandah' (CNB 2012)

Laundry day in the water village (CNB 2012)

'Blonde' Bajaus at Semporna Kampung Air (CNB 2012)

The main jetty area (CNB 2012)

Another view of the main jetty area (CNB 2012)

Nature tour guides Edmundo, John and Ben pose
on the jetty walkway (CNB 2012)

Back on dry land, the Semporna Mosque with its yellow domes, is the pride of the town.

Semporna Mosque (CNB 2012)

So also the bustling market. And what is a town without a market? It is the pulse, and a very lively, colourful one. This time we had our lunch at Gerai 13 in the market area. We were in good company - with our three guides (Ben and Edmundo are joined by John) and the van driver from the 'Borneo Semporna Proboscis River Cruise' (more about this in another blog entry later).

Lunch at Gerai 13, Semporna Market. John 'Kaling' Nair is at
 left. Remember him from the 'Colours of Malaysia' travel
series? (AB 2012) 

Our meal mainly came from this grilled fish stall (CNB 2012)

We also had kilau - raw fish with mango/pineapple/onion
shreds. Ben says it is called inava in Kota Kinabalu (CNB 2012)

A Bajau staple, Pyutu - tapioca 'rice' or 'sausage'

The wet fish market always beckons and the denizens of the sea on offer there are always fascinating. This time I spotted many puffer/blow fish, and even box fish, that I remember seeing for the first time at the Gelugor Aquarium in Penang during my much younger days. But this time they were destined for the frying pan? Who eats box fish, I wonder. By the way, I was too much of a coward to try eating the puffer fish. I guess maybe, I am afraid of excruciating death?!

Puffer fish for the brave (CNB 2012)

The box fish (CNB 2012)

Fish so colourful (CNB 2012)

Tehe tehe/sea urchin with seaweeds, latok/sea grapes
(my favourite), etc. in the back. Latok is only RM1 per
plateful - incredibly cheap! Semporna seaweed farming
is doing well. (CNB 2012)

Then there is the dry fish market - for dried fish, of course, and other seafood. We saw trays of sea cucumber, scallops, and tiny stingrays drying in the sun along the walkways.

Bridge to the dry fish market (CNB 2012)

Was the sambulayang inspired by dried octopus? (CNB 2012)

More dried denizens of the sea (CNB 2012)

Cowrie shells for sale  - which begs the question; do we buy?
(CNB 2012)

Then there is the rest of the market area dedicated to vegetables and fruits, foods of various kinds, household (and aquatic) supplies, even 'recon' shoes!

Vegetables all cut and ready to cook (CNB 2012)

Snacks of all kinds and colour (CNB 2012)

A tries out some wood goggles. On the left are bottles of
engine oils for boats (CNB 2012)

I pose by some 'recon' shoes (CNB 2012)

I love markets and never pass up the chance to visit one wherever I go. This time in Semporna, apart from visiting an island (Mataking), we went up the Bukit Tengkorak (Hill of Skulls) and down the Sungai Buaya (Crocodile River) to experience its natural wonders.

17-22 April 2012