Magical Fireflies & More in Kuala Selangor

Its been a few years since we were in Kuala Selangor, especially to see for ourselves the magical flickering firefly colony in Kampung Kuantan. I remember that before going, there were 'warnings' about crocodiles in the area where the berembang trees (favoured by the fireflies), were along the Selangor River. But we dismissed these because after all if so many have gone there before us, why not us?

So one evening in Kampung Kuantan, about 15 minutes from the coastal town of Kuala Selangor, we gamely donned life jackets and got into the sampan (traditional small Malay boat), oared by a man who has guided so many tourists, local and foreign along the Selangor River to witness the lights of the kelip-kelip (fireflies). Indeed when we got to the berembang trees so favoured by the fireflies, there they were like flickering lights on a Christmas tree. No, they were better - they were magic! (Pity my camera was not good enough to do any justice to this magic, hence no firefly photos.)

Waiting at the jetty for a sampan (2007)

Apart from the fireflies at night, there are the fascinating Lutung or silvered leaf monkeys on Bukit Malawati (Malawati Hill) in the daytime. Even more fascinating, their very young are a golden orange colour! These creatures are so docile, quite unlike their rather aggressive cousins, the long tailed macaques. (Later our guide at the Kuala Selangor Nature Park would joke about the monkeys leaving their nature park home in the day for 'work' at Bukit Malawati - 'entertaining' the visitors there and waiting for their just rewards!)

Some adult leaf monkeys and a golden baby (CNB 2007)

The peaceful primates even line up for food handouts from
visitors (CNB 2007)

Silvered leaf monkeys swarming a car (CNB 2007)

Bukit Malawati has many historical relics including Kota Malawati (Fort Malawati), seat of the first rulers of Selangor. The Makam Diraja is a royal mausoleum with the graves of three Sultans. Other interesting relics include the Perigi beracun (Poisoned well), Batu hampar (a stone execution block), a 100 step path and cannons. Kuala Selangor being at the mouth of the Selangor River (kuala=estuary), was once a thriving trading post. Many battles were fought between the locals and foreign seafaring invaders. The Dutch left their mark in the Kota Belanda (Dutch Fort) and the Altinsburg Lighthouse.

Bukit Malawati relics: The lighthouse and a
bronze cannon (CNB 2007)

The ancient Dutch fort is on the nearby Bukit Belanda/Bukit Tanjung Keramat. The area is not so well cared for but we were really more interested in the 'legend' of the pious maiden Rubiah, who disappeared on her wedding day. She had, probably drowned herself (to avoid the arranged marriage) in the small pretty lake in the lee of the fort. Her parents discovered her clothes hung on a tree near the lake, and later built a grave for her, which became known as the Makam Anak Dara or Virgin's Grave. (Note: I first became aware of this 'legend' after a Yasmin Ahmad movie - Mukhsin).

On the steps leading up to the Virgin's Grave
(AB 2007)

Within walking distance from Kuala Selangor town is the Taman Alam Kuala Selangor or Kuala Selangor Nature Park. This is a 296 acre wetland sanctuary with secondary forests, mudflats and mangroves. The fauna includes 157 species of birds and a brackish lake there provides a roosting and feeding site for a variety, including migratory birds. There are bird hides and towers to better aid viewing. The mudflats are rich in wildlife including fishes and shellfish.

The Park is managed by the Malaysian Nature Society. Being a paid member, we were provided with entrance tickets and a guide at a discounted rate. Wohoo! The guide (I cannot recall his name, I'm so sorry) was pretty knowledgeable and pointed out the various wildlife and their features we would otherwise have missed. Kudos to this well-trained young man.

A & our KSNP guide (CNB 2007)

Mangrove trees at the KSNP (CNB 2007)

A beautiful turquoise mudflat crab (CNB 2007)

Before leaving Kuala Selangor, most people go to Kampung Pasir Penambang, a fishing village with its bustling market and seafood restaurants lining the river bank. This is either to buy fresh fish or fish products, or to partake of the delicious seafood. We shopped at the market and had a very late lunch at the recommended River View Seafood Restaurant. It was a fitting end to our Kuala Selangor sojourn.

Cooling coconut water to quench your thirst (CNB 2007)

Dining at a seafood restaurant affords this nice view of the
Selangor River estuary (CNB 2007)

At the market in Kg Pasir Penambang (AB 2007)

May 2007