Alor Setar, Alor Star, Aloq Staq

This capital city of Kedah is spelt Alor Setar, pronounced Alor Star or even Aloq Staq in colloquial Kedah speak! We spent just 13 hours in Alor Star, going there recently by the last Senandung Langkawi express train to stop at the railway station on Jalan Station. I have visited Alor Star a few times after leaving it in early 1960, and every time there was always the thought that I missed something.

B in her upper bunk berth on the Senandung Langkawi
(CNB 2013)

Arriving in Alor Star at  day break (CNB 2013)

After going down memory lane or rather Station Road where I used to live in the 50s, we headed for the town centre to have breakfast at the very well known bazaar - Pekan Rabu (literally translated as Wednesday Market, but open all week long). This central part of town has been spruced up and there are Kedah flags/buntings all over to celebrate the recent birthday of the Sultan (now also the YDP Agong).

Along Jalan Tunku Ibrahim, where Pekan Rabu is (BB 2013)

The Pekan Rabu  complex building (CNB 2013)

We sought other Alor Star landmarks nearby, especially the historic ones. We found most in the city centre, along Jalan Pekan Melayu. The beautiful Masjid Zahir (Zahir Mosque) of Moorish architecture was built in 1912. It is one of the oldest mosques in the country. This 101 year old state mosque has been been spruced up and the distinctive black domes that I still remember are now copper brown.

The beautiful Zahir Mosque (CNB 2013)

Just across the road we went into the Muzium Diraja Kedah (Royal Museum), in a beautiful building which used to be the palace of the Sultans of Kedah from 1735 to 1935. Our 'Bapa Malaysia' Tunku Abdul Rahman was also raised here. The exhibits trace the history of the Kedah sultanate, oldest in the country, which started in 1136.

The Royal Museum (BB 2013)

Just next door is the Balai Besar (Great Hall), a heritage building built in 1893, during the reign of Sultan Abdul Hamid Halim Shah. The original structure was built in 1735 by the founder of Alor Star, Sultan Muhammad Jiwa Zainal Abidin, 19th ruler of Kedah Sultanate, as the Balai Rong Seri or Audience Hall.

The Balai Besar (CNB 2013)

The Balai Seni Negeri (State Art Gallery) is in a colonial style building built in 1893 and originally accommodating a court house. From 1912-1983 it housed various government departments, before being converted into the State Art Gallery in conjunction with the Silver Jubilee of the reign of Tunku Abdul Halim Mu'adzam Shah. Pity we did not really have the time to check out the exhibits of Kedah artists/artisans here or to lepak at the Dataran (Square) close by.

Dataran Alor Star & Balai Seni Negeri  (CNB 2013)

The Istana Kota Tengah Arch replica is sited between the Balai Besar and Balai Nobat. The original arch formerly adorned the Kota Tengah Palace of Sultan Abdul Hamid Halim Shah, 26th Sultan of Kedah (1882-1943). It had been demolished to make way for the Wisma Negeri.

Istana Kota Tengah arch (CNB 2013)

The Balai Nobat is a ceremonial tower topped with an Islamic-style dome which houses the instruments of the Royal Orchestra. The unique, almost 'haunting' music of nobat is most interesting to listen to. But of course it is only played during special royal occasions. Originally five storeys, the Balai Nobat was built during the reign of Sultan Ahmad Tajuddin Mukarram Shah (1854-1879), but a 1906 renovation/reconstruction reduced it to three storeys.

Balai Nobat (CNB 2013)

Galleria Sultan Abdul Halim (Sultan Abdul Halim Gallery) was formerly the Mahkamah Tinggi/High Court building. It is another colonial building but with Roman columns, built in 1922. It houses the personal collection of the Sultan, official documents, palace attire and accessories. The Gallery is just next to the Balai Nobat.

Galleria Sultan Abdul Halim (CNB 2013)

Bangunan Jam Besar (Big Clock Building) is the clock tower across the road from Balai Nobat. It was built about the same time as Masjid Zahir. The detail on its door/entrance is quite exquisite.

The Big Clock tower (CNB 2013)

Rather nearby along Jalan Kancut is another tower - a relatively very new one built between 1995-1998.  Menara Alor Star (Alor Star Tower) is a prominent landmark because it soars above the city skyline. Architecturally, the design of this telecommunications tower is representative of a bunch of padi stalks tied together. The observation deck affords a panoramic view of Alor Star and its environs. We had planned to have our lunch here, but unfortunately the revolving restaurant was closed, so we had to find another place to have lunch.

Menara Alor Star (CNB 2013)

Of course there is much more* to see and experience in this capital of Kedah ('rice bowl of Malaysia'), but for thirteen hours in Alor Star, I think we did pretty darn well. And it helped that all these landmarks were within the city centre.

*Rumah Merdeka, Rumah Kelahiran Mahathir Mohamad, Bangunan Wan Muhammad Saman, Istana Kuning, Pejabat Pos Besar, Masjid Albukhary, Tugu ... etc., etc.
28 January 2013