Peranakan Nostalgia at Jalan Tun Tan Cheng Lock

While in Melaka, one can't help but be very aware of Peranakan (Straits born Chinese) culture, especially when in its Chinatown area. The very narrow Jalan Tun Tan Cheng Lock, (formerly known as Heeren Street from the Dutch colonial period), was the millionaire's row for Melaka's Chinese merchants during colonial times.

Walking from our hotel, a mere stone's throw away is Heeren House, at the corner of Lorong Hang Jebat and the entrance to Jalan TTCL.  This guest house by the Melaka River used to be a warehouse, a coffee shop and a family home.

Heeren House by the Melaka River (CNB 2013)

Architectural detail of a phoenix and peonies adorning a
building (CNB 2013)

Along the street there are many art and craft shops and galleries in what used to be traditional shophouses. Some of the shop fronts now exhibit pretty container gardens and are beautifully decorated, both outside and inside. We also noted that there are buildings undergoing conservation/restoration. We stopped by a newly opened shop exhibiting colourful embroidered Nyonya kebaya, and before you know it, B had bought herself a kebaya & sarung set. Very appropriate souvenir of Melaka!

The container garden of the Artist Gallery (CNB 2013)

Pretty kebayas in a shop (CNB 2012)

A bright blue shop, 'Colour Beads', attracted our attention from afar and inside we discovered a treasure trove of  beaded shoes, a skilled artisan making them at the back of the shop. The shoes are hand made from A to Z, the minuscule beads hand sewn to make pretty floral patterns (for the old style shoes) and geometric ones (for the new style shoes). At around RM300, you can wear art on your feet! Who needs Louboutins, eh?

B in front of the bright blue Colour Beads shop (CNB 2013)

BNHC window detail

The next day we returned to Jalan TTCL for a 45 minute guided tour at the Baba Nyonya Heritage Centre, which proved most interesting for the hybrid culture of the Baba Nyonya or Peranakan (assimilated/Straits born Chinese). Shirley our guide, explained how a millionaire Peranakan household operated in their hey day during colonial times. The Peranakans are descendants of the first Chinese men who came to Malaya and married local women. In fact the place of honour at the ancestral worship alter of this particular house is of a Bugis Malay woman.

The furnishing in the house is rich and elegant. The wood furniture have mother-of-pearl inlay, there are intricate carvings on lacquer screens, delicately embroidered wall hangings and chandeliers and mirrors from Europe.

No photography is allowed in the house and Shirley our guide is a no-nonsense person whom we would not cross swords with. At the end of the tour we gave her an 'excellent' review for a job well done, and then persuaded her to pose for pictures - outside the house, of course.

B and Shirley (CNB 2013)

2-5 November 2013