My Cambodia

Johm riab sua/sua s'dei (Hello in Khmer language)

In October 2010, I went for a brief visit to Cambodia, specifically the capital Phnom Penh. As we travelled to our hotel near the confluence of the Tonle Sap, Mekong and Tonle Bassac Rivers, we passed by the Independance Monument at the intersection of the Norodom and Sihanouk Boulevards and also the Prime Minister Hun Sen's residence nearby. The Independance Monument was inaugurated in 1962 to celebrate Cambodia's independance and modelled on the central tower of Angkor Wat.

The Independance Monument (CNB 2010)

October is still the rainy season in Cambodia, hence this Phnom Penh skyline from my hotel window in the morning, rain clouds threatening from above. But we did have three clear days when we were there.

View from my hotel window (CNB 2010)

Our first foray into the city was to the Phsar Tuol Tom Pong (PTTP) aka the Russian Market (because the Russians shopped here during the 1980s). This traditional market, situated south of Mao Tse Toung Boulevard,  is touted the most visited by tourists to Cambodia. Nearly everything is available here - souvenirs of all kinds, clothes, antiques, religious icons, silks and other textiles, shoes/footwear, etc., etc. Do not bother to convert your money into the local currency because here the US$ rules. Bargaining is also the rule here! A pedlar approached us with some books and we bought some* at a very good price. Of course we found out later that these were very good copies (pun intended!). We never got to the Phsar Thmei or Central Market, but spotted the 'unique, domed, yellow art-deco building' a few times.

Materials galore at the PTTP (CNB 2010)

Antique Buddha heads? Maybe (CNB 2010)

This lady sells a natural concoction for headaches.
Just wash your hair with this pile of leaves, fruits, etc. (CNB 2010)

Papits (sic) for sale. Buy one? Two? More? (2010)

At the end of the street - Psar Thmei (CNB 2010)

For contrast, we went into the air-conditioned comfort of the Sorya Shopping Centre, where we shopped for the silks that Cambodia is quite famous for.

Shopgirls modelling silks at a Sorya outlet (CNB 2010)

On the very busy streets and boulevards of Phnom Penh hoy polloi transport mode included buses, cyclo (pedicab/bicycle rickshaw), remorque-moto (often referred to as tuk-tuk by foreigners), and motorcycles. Once I spotted a very red Angkor van and had to capture it on camera.

A remorque-moto awaiting passengers (CNB 2010)

A rare cyclo (CNB 2010)

Motorcycles and an 'Angkor' van (CNB 2010)

We were not very adventurous with our food, mostly eating at a Malaysian restaurant, the Mamak's Corner, situated behind Phsar Thmei. The usual Malaysian fare of nasi campur, roti canai, nasi goreng, teh tarik, etc., are served here. Even Tun Mahathir and wife ate here before, testified by some photographs on the restaurant wall. Once we did have tea and 'Khmer cake' at the Khmer-Borane Cafe-Restaurant by the riverside. I did not get the chance to try the famous Khmer amoc (baked fish with coconut, lemon grass and chilli), but at the airport going home, bought the spices for it.

Tea with Khmer cake (CNB 2010)

Khmer amoc (taken from Wikipedia 2011)

Another traditional market we went to was the Psar Olympic (because it is near another Phnom Penh landmark, the Olympic Stadium), quite similar to the other traditional market, selling similar goods. We were attracted to the food section where there was also alfresco dining, Asean style of course.

This young woman uses a very effective simple tool
to scrape coconut (CNB 2010)

The scraped coconut enhances these delicacies (CNB 2010)

Fresh, dried shrimps at the Psar (CNB 2010)

Fish crackers all packed and ready to eat (CNB 2010)

Shoes, minus nail polished toes, for sale (CNB 2010)

A woman selling the versatile krama material,
a native symbol of Cambodia (CNB 2010)

A street pedlar wearing the ubiquitous krama.
She gamely posed for me, aw kohn/thank you! (CNB 2010)

We went to where Phnom Penh began - the Wat Phnom. There, for fun (and good luck?) we bought and released some birds, knowing well that these birds would 'home' back to the seller/owner! Madam Penh, the 'founder' of Phnom Penh is there in all her bespectacled glory, and wearing money! There is also the eclectic shrine dedicated to a genie Prah Chao, and the idols and other Buddhist treasures in the Vihara/temple sanctuary.

Releasing some 'homing' birds (2010)

Idols galore at the Vihara, Wat Phnom (CNB 2011)

Madam Penh in all her bespectacled glory (CNB 2010)

We also visited the grounds of the Royal Palace, or in Khmer, Preah Borom Reach Vang Chatomuk Mongkul. Care to learn Khmer? Sounds really difficult! The Royal Palace was first built in 1434, then in 1866. The architectural details of the Throne Hall or Preah Tineang Tevea Vinichhay are quite fascinating. Then of course there is the Temple of the Emerald Buddha, also known as the Silver Pagoda, for the 5000 silver floor tiles found in it. But sorry, no photography allowed in here, so you just have to take my word for it that the tiles are indeed silver and the Buddha emerald.

The Royal Palace grounds (2010)

Column and roof details of the Throne Hall (CNB 2010)

At the door to the Temple of the Emerald Buddha aka Silver Pagoda (2010)

Shy monks spotted at the Royal Palace grounds (CNB 2010)

A visit to Phnom Penh would be incomplete without visiting the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum. This gruesome reminder of the Khmer Rouge atrocities under Pol Pot really gave us the shivers. The former school blocks turned torture chambers are said to be haunted by the victims, particularly a woman who died with her child in her arms. When you look at the photos of the youthful perpetrators, you wonder why and how they could commit what they did. It was really a very, very sad episode in the history of Cambodia.

Skulls of the unfortunate victims of the Khmer Rouge (CNB 2010)

This female victim, killed with her baby in her arms, is said
to haunt the place (CNB 2010)

Would I return to Cambodia?  A very resounding 'Yes, I would'! There is the Angkor Wat, in Siem Reap, an ancient wonder of the world yet to be experienced, Battambang, Kompong Cham, Sihanoukville, etc.

*Cambodia (Lonely Planet), Children of Cambodia's Killing Fields compiled by Dith Pran, The Pol Pot Regime by Ben Kiernan, and Lucky Child by Loung Ung. (Later back home, I bought another, a travel sketch book Cambodia & Angkor by D Chavanat, Elsie & J C Smith, and this provides a very intimate look, albeit by outsiders, of the country).

October 2010