My Sabah: Semporna

After the first time in 2003, I visited Sabah again in 2005 for an official meeting. But it was my third visit in April 2011, especially to witness the 18th annual Regatta Lepa in Semporna, that was truly memorable. (The lepa-lepa are traditional wooden boats of the Bajaus). I had always wanted to see this very interesting event, and was elated when invited to join a group of friends going there.

A and I flew to Tawau with this group of friends, then went on to Semporna by bus. I noticed that all along the way are oil palm plantations. But Semporna (meaning 'perfect' in Bajau/Malay) is a seafront resort township, grown from a sleepy fishing village. Muslim Bajau and Suluk peoples have for generations roamed the seas around East Sabah, but have now mostly settled around Semporna. Bajau stilt houses are clustered in the front and sides of the town, with part of the town on a causeway jutting out into the sea. We stayed at the Seafest Hotel, a very ideal location that overlooks the Regatta site.

The Bajau welcome that we received was most beautiful. We were greeted with the traditional 'Mengalai'  (Dance/dancing) called the Igal (the movements imitate an eagle), followed by the most sumptuous seafood spread of Bajau delicacies: tehe-tehe (sea urchin), 'sea grapes'/grape seaweeds, shellfish, oysters, prawns, etc.

"Mengalai"- doing the 'Igal' (CNB 2011)

 A Tehe-tehe or sea urchin dish with rice (CNB 2011)

Latok or grape seaweeds - my favourite! (CNB 2011)

Various seafood dishes (CNB 2011)

Kueh penyaram - dessert that is also 'dowry'! (CNB 2011)

During our stay in Semporna we also had some meals at the Pearl City Floating Restaurant - more delicious fresh seafood dishes including lobster. Delish! And usually after dinner, there was 'mengalai' (and karaoke).

A huge grin to accompany the yummy fresh lobster (AB 2011)

One afternoon after visiting the Semporna Hospital to cheer up the patients there, we went out on speed boats to the Sipadan-Kapalai Dive Resort to spend a night there. It was truly surreal, and also quite fearsome for me because in the night I imagined pirates coming into our floating chalets! Anyway the Sulawesi/Celebes Sea is full of many types of fish, stingrays, and the ballerinas of the ocean - turtles, and the clear blue waters enable spotting them (even without having to snorkel or dive).


Skimming the waters of the Sulawesi Sea at dusk (CNB 2011)

Appreciating the sunrise at Kapalai (AB 2011)

The natural photo studio on Kapalai. Everybody poses here! (AB 2011)

Anchovies in the aquamarine waters around Kapalai (CNB 2011)

Leaving Kapalai, we went on to Mabul, also of the Sipadan group of islands. Many divers come to Mabul (and other islands off Semporna, including world famous Sipadan of course) and the resort here (Sipadan Mabul Resort) floats on very white sandy terrain. We noticed many star fishes all round. While some of us (i.e. the younger ones) went snorkelling, I chose to go into the village on the island for a peep into the island life there. The houses were neat and had well kept gardens of potted plants. The beach was pristine white sand.

The Sipadan Mabul  Resort on Mabul Island (CNB 2011)

In the far centre, an oil rig turned resort - Seaventures Dive Resort
(CNB 2011)

Kg Bangau-Bangau - village on stilts, Semporna (CNB 2011)

The 18th Regatta Lepa was a very colourful affair. (I will do a posting especially for this later because I think it deserves an expose of all the photos taken. Below is a teaser)

Two colourful lepas at the Regatta (CNB 2011)

I love markets, so took the opportunity to visit the fish markets of Semporna, both wet and dry. In fact the markets are part on land and part 'floating'. The water seems such an integral part of the Bajau people here, reflecting their long love affair with the sea.

A woman exhibits dry oysters for sale (CNB 2011)

The freshest tuna fish at the wet market, Semporna (2011)

It has been a truly memorable stay in Semporna for me. The people (Bajau, Malay, etc.) were most friendly and seemed to have a happy outlook of life. I managed to take some portraits of the many faces of Semporna, and their eyes do mirror their contentment with the simple life (or is it just my imagination?)

Bajau mother and baby at Semporna Hospital (CNB 2011)

These two Bajau ladies willingly posed for me, terima kasih
(CNB 2011)

This little Igal dancer was the star at an engagement  ceremony.
 But she was rather shy (CNB 2011)

A sweet smile on a weather-beaten Bajau face that has surely
experienced a full life (CNB 2011)

Igal dancers (though two here are not quite local) (CNB 2011)

Note: Apart from Kapalai, Mabul and Sipadan, other islands off Semporna include Bohaiyan, Mataking, Mantabuan, Sibuan, Bohaidulang and Sebangkat.                                   April 2011