Books I Love: Sylvia; Queen of the Headhunters

Sylvia; Queen  of the Headhunters by Philip Eade was published in 2007. It is a biography of Sylvia Brooke, who was the consort of the 3rd and last 'White Rajah' of Sarawak. Ranee Sylvia's eccentric behaviour was thought to have contributed to the downfall of this 'bizarre dynasty of English despots who ruled their jungle kingdom on Borneo' from 1841 until 1946.

I love this book because the history of Sarawak seems bizarre enough with having had 'White Rajahs'. The short version: James Brooke became the 1st Rajah when he restored order in this province which was then under the suzerainty of the Sultan of Brunei; he was succeeded by his nephew Charles Johnson who assumed the surname of Brooke. Charles' son Vyner then became the 3rd and last Rajah, who ceded Sarawak to Britain. Vyner's wife Sylvia was this multi-talented but very erratic, quirky/kooky, even 'racy' 'White Ranee' to add to this interesting period. Also their three daughters and their colourful lifestyles. Sounds like a Hollywood movie? Well, I think it all seem much, much more intriguing!

This is Philip Eade's first book and it deals with a subject no one ever did before, other than Sylvia herself who wrote two autobiographies: Sylvia of Sarawak, Hutchinson, 1936 & Queen of the Head-Hunters, Sidgwick & Jackson, 1970 (plus nine other works, mainly fiction). There are books on the 'White Rajahs' dynasty but none focused on their Ranees.

Note: When we visited Sarawak before, we only visited the Cat Museum, not the Sarawak Museum. So I cannot ascertain how much of Sylvia is documented/recorded there, but the author did mention '... that the Malaysian government is not excessively keen on harping back to the days of the White Rajahs - witness the dismantling of the display devoted to their dynasty at the Kuching museum'.

Ex Libris CNB 1898

My Sarawak

Sarawak, like Sabah, also seems so far away. Geographically it is, but being a state of Malaysia since 1964 has made it so much closer. We have friends from Sarawak and also family there which I had visited, but only twice. The first visit was in 2006.

This visit was combined with B and I accompanying A for a do in Kuching. Not the famous Rainforest Music Festival (RMF), but the Sure Heboh Carnival. I have yet to make it to the RMF, which I have kept postponing year after year.

B and friends at the Sure Heboh Carnival (CNB 2006)

We of course visit the Sarawak Cultural Village (SCV), a must do for first time visitors to Sarawak. Here you get an overview of the culture of the various indigenous peoples of this very big East Malaysian state.

At the entrance to the SCV (2006)
L-R: Me, A, B, Dayang, friend cum tour guide

The Ngajat Lesong, where the warrior dances with the very
heavy lesong gripped with his teeth (CNB 2006)

Beneath the Orang Ulu longhouse (CNB 2006)

Singing with Pak Daim at the Malay house (2006)

The SCV against the backdrop of Mt Santubung (CNB 2006)

After the SCV, we were ready for a sunset cruise on the Sarawak River. I am always fascinated by sunsets and this was another beautiful sight.

A beautiful sunset behind Mt Santubung (CNB 2006)

After a good night's sleep, the next morning we started the day visiting the Cat Museum. It had everything on cats, even mummified ones.

At the Cat Museum, Kuching (BB 2006)

After the Cat Museum, we visited the Sarawak State Library or Pustaka Negeri Sarawak. We said hello to the CEO of the Pustaka, Puan Rashidah Bol Hassan. She had the most beautiful office in a Library, and she very kindly showed us around. Of course we had to pose on the famous glass staircase. Thank you Rashidah, you have a most wonderful library.

A and B with the CEO of the Pustaka Sarawak on the
famous glass staircase of the Pustaka (CNB 2006)

From the Pustaka, we walked along the riverside and admired all the sculptures there. The sculpture with nine cats reminded us of the nine that we once we had.

The 9-cat sculptre is now 10. Spot the biggest cat! (CNB 2006)

Me, a buaya besi (buaya darat?) and the Astana across the river
(BB 2006)

The next morning we took a short penambang boat ride to the other side of the river, to visit Fort Margherita. The ride cost only 30 sen.

Penambang boat endorsing 'Fair & Lovely' (CNB 2006)

Our penambang boatman's striped shirt
remind us of Venice (CNB 2006)

B at the entrance of Fort Margherita (CNB 2006)

After Fort Margherita, we had a rest and tea. From the top of the building I took a photo of the colourful rooftops and Mt Santubung in the distance. Then we walked a bit along some streets to check out the nearby shops and market.

The barely visible mystical Santubung across some Kuching
rooftops (CNB 2006) 

B at the entrance of the Masjid India (CNB 2006)

On our last evening we had a nice dinner with our new friends, Zalma and her husband. Zalma is a teacher, recently transferred to Kuching from Pulau Pinang. She had been introduced to us by my sis-in-law QA.

With Zalma and her husband (2006)

Sarawak was truly an interesting place to visit. I hope to return, maybe for the Rainforest Music Festival. But when? I do not know, yet...

2006