A Vicarious Travel to Ecuador (at MAHA 2014)

While visiting the MAHA Show recently, at one of the main exhibition halls, we were drawn to the booth of the Embassy of Ecuador. First by the very colourful posters (of roses, tagua beads, mangoes, chocolate, quinoa) and products exhibited; then by the smiling personality manning the booth. Surprisingly she is not from Ecuador but a Malaysian!

Marion is a physiotherapist married to an Ecuadorian attached to the Embassy of the Republic of Ecuador here in Kuala Lumpur, hence her presence at the booth. A and I had a lot of questions about Ecuador and she kindly showed us videos of this rather fascinating South American country. I found out that this country's main exports are petroleum, bananas, cut flowers, shrimp, cacao, coffee, wood and (canned) fish.

Among other products, there is the rather fascinating tagua (beads, jewelry and carvings made from palm nuts). The tagua nuts are from the Phytelepus, commonly known as ivory palms, ivory-nut palms or tagua palms. The tagua nut are also known as vegetable ivory. A very kind alternative to elephant tusk products.

                                       

                                       
Then there are some surprising food products, including quinoa which are grains 'from the Andes (Mountains) to the World' and award winning chocolate made of Ecuadorian cacao. We also had a taste of their banana crisps which was quite delicious.

                                     
We liked the Panama hat (of Ecuadorian origin, hand made from toquilla straw) that Marion had on and so we posed for pictures wearing similar ones - A in yellow and moi in pink. Oh, of course I had to buy a set of tagua necklace and earrings. So even if I have not been to Ecuador, I have a beautiful reminder of this faraway country, that straddles the earth's equator and owns the wonderful Galapagos Islands.

26 November 2014

Moroccan Pavilion at Taman Botani Putrajaya

We wanted to walk around the Taman Botani Putrajaya or Botanic Gardens of Putrajaya (after Ebak's wedding reception), but by the time we got there, it was raining. It was just as well that by chance we'd parked in front of the Astaka Morocco or Moroccan Pavilion, and so we walked around it to gaze in awe at the fantastic architectural details of this beautiful complex of grand arches, wonderfully decorated walls and doors and a quite lavish garden of palms and fountains. A serendipitous encounter of the most awesome kind!

The dominant archways welcome visitors into the courtyards and gardens.  The buildings are decorated with colourful tiles in geometric patterns and adorned with exquisite Islamic calligraphy. Even the door details warrant long lingering examination.

The architecture in Morocco is said to be 'a blend of Black African and Islamic design styles, with the Islamic styles dominating this combination'. Their artistic heritage had been 'enriched by the cultural contribution of Muslim Andalucia'. We'd never been to Morocco but you bet it is on my bucket list. This Moroccan Pavilion is but a tiny hint of the splendours of Moroccan architecture, I'm sure.

This one example of Moroccan architecture is indeed breathtaking. The water element in the garden courtyard runs straight through the complex ending in a beautiful fountain in the main building. Lovely brass lamps adorn the ceilings. Even the floor tiles are very admirable. But our harsh tropical climate has made it a challenge in the upkeep of this complex. We notice some broken tiles and the scaffolding around the archways into the grounds.

The scaffolding are but a minor distraction because nothing can detract from the beauty of the complex's architectural details. The exquisite door decorations of wood carving and brass knockers just warrant close-up pictures. As do the colourful tiles and other decorations of walls, ceilings and floors.

The Moroccan Pavilion exude breathtaking Moroccan architecture with its rich artistic and alluring decorations. But don't just take my word for it. Visit it the next time you find yourself in Putrajaya, and be prepared to be mesmerised. And feel as though you have been transported to Morocco. Enjoy the (vicarious) travel.                                                             1 November 2014

Books I Love: The Tao of Travel

The Tao of Travel; Enlightenments from Lives on the Road is a book I acquired in 2011 and I dip into it often, for the inspiring words and 'stories' about a subject close to my heart - travel. Written by Paul Theroux in 2011 (so I bought it fresh from the printing press!), this book is the 44th from this prolific writer of both fiction and non-fiction. I have yet to read any of his 28 novels but I have read five of his travel books*.

The blurb at the back of the book reads: Paul Theroux celebrates fifty years of wandering the globe by collecting the best writing on travel from the books that shaped him, as a reader and traveller. Part philosophical guide, part miscellany, part reminiscence, The Tao of Travel enumerates 'The Contents of Some Travellers' Bags' and exposes 'Writers Who Wrote about Places They Never Visited'; it tracks extreme journeys in 'Travel as an Ordeal' and highlights some of 'Travellers' Favourite Places'. Excerpts from the best of Theroux's own work are interspersed with selections from travellers both familiar and unexpected, including: Vladimir Nabokov, ... Freya Stark, ... and more.

USA Today says, this book is 'A portal into a world of timeless travel literature curated by one of the greatest travel writers of our day'.

My own favourite parts of this book are the sections on 'The Pleasures of Railways', 'Classics of a Sense of Place' and the 'Travel Wisdom' of the various travellers including Sir Francis Galton.

Theroux ends his book with 'The Essential Tao of Travel':
1. Leave home  2. Go alone  3. Travel light  4. Bring a map  5. Go by land
6. Walk across a national frontier  7. Keep a journal
8. Read a novel that has no relation to the place you are in
9. If you must bring a cell phone, avoid using it  10. Make a friend
For me, only 2, 6, & 8 are hard to do. I salute solo travellers because I'm too much of a coward to travel alone. I have yet to walk across any frontier, but you never know ... Whenever I do travel, I do not read novels, full stop.

The Tao of Travel / Paul Theroux. Hamish Hamilton, 2011. Ex Libris CNB 1899

Note: Tao (in Chinese philosophy) is the absolute principle underlying the universe, combining within itself the principles of yin and yang and signifying the way, or code of behaviour, that is in harmony with natural order.... literally '(right) way' (Google)

*1. The Great Railway Bazaar; by Train through Asia. Penguin Books, 1977. Ex Libris CNB 53
*2. The Old Patagonian Express; by Train through the Americas. Penguin Books, 1980. Ex Libris CNB 1645
*3. The Kingdom by the Sea; a Journey around the Coast of Great Britain. Penguin Books, 1984. Ex Libris CNB 54
*4. Riding the Iron Rooster; by Train through China. Penguin Books, 1989. Ex Libris CNB 52
*5. Train to the Eastern Star; on the Tracks of the Great Railway Bazaar. Penguin Books, 2009. Ex Libris CNB 1854

Eat Well, Travel Often

Just maybe, I will! Eat well, I mean healthy really, and travel often, especially in our own backyard in Malaysia. Now I feel like making a list for 2014 because we all love lists. My local 'travel often' list will include places I have never been to, and places I would like to revisit. Starting with the state of Selangor where I live.

# 1. Pulau Carey
# 2. Pulau Ketam
# 3. Tanjung Karang
# 4. Jugra/Bandar
# 5. Kuala Kubu Baru
# 6. Semenyih
# 7. Kuala Selangor     That's it for now. But this post is in progress ... 

Now about eating well/healthy; here is a list of super foods as a reminder ...
beans, carrots, nuts, cabbage, citrus fruits, garlic, fish, ginger, cheese, yogurt, milk, onions, tomato, honey, greens.

Welcome Twenty14, Goodbye 2013

Dear Stella,
Thank you for the beautiful Christmas and New Year card you sent at the end of 2013. The picture of the tulips in your garden are very pretty. I'm sure your garden gives you joy the whole year round, as does mine.

This is my first blog post for 2014 and I would like to dedicate it to you and our >30 year-long friendship.

New Year resolutions last only a week usually (for me at least), so this year I have not really consciously made any. It is all going to be up to serendipity ... so in failing to plan for 2014, I guess I am planning to fail. Oh, well - life goes on, and I will continue to count my blessings, especially where travel is concerned.

Pantone's colour of 2013 - Emerald green (CNB) 

Let me recall what I did in 2013 so I may be grateful to have gone through another year of 365 sunrises.

In January I went 'home' to Alor Star, Kedah by train, the day they closed the Railway station.

We celebrated Chinese New Year in February with feathered friends at the KL Bird Park.

On my birthday in March, I rode on the North Borneo Railway - certainly a most memorable occasion. And I also experienced the Kota Belud Tamu with our good friends in Sabah.

I went back (balik kampung) to Pulau Pinang four times. The first was on the sad occasion of my loving mum's demise in March (Al-Fatihah), the second for a family meeting in May, the third for Hari Raya in August and the last for my niece's wedding in November. (I have discounted the trip to PP to go on my first cruise on a big ship).

In October we went on a road trip to my nephew's place in historic Kota Tinggi, Johor (and also visiting Legoland Malaysia and Johor Baru).

In November we went on another road trip to another historic place (where it all began) Melaka. In the same month I went on the Star Cruise to Thailand (Phuket & Krabi). This is the only foreign travel that I went on for the year, so it has mostly been 'staycations' or cuti-cuti (di) Malaysia year for me. Not that I am complaining because, despite my 62 years, I am still discovering new patches in my own backyard, especially in Selangor. So far I did visit and 'document' 16 landmarks of this state where I now live.

Slowly but surely I will have visited/revisited the various landmarks that make up our built history and the natural sites the country has been endowed with. Appropriately, 2014 is 'Visit Malaysia Year', so I will make (serendipitous) road and railway trips around the country. I also hope to throw in one or two or more foreign travel. Wish me luck!

Pengembara

Aku adalah pengembara
     yang tak berpeta
langkah-langkahku kerap serakah
sehingga aku tak terhitung
musim-musim hijrah
merakam setiap sumbangnya langkahku
yang kian lesu.

Aku adalah pengembara
    yang alpa
rakus dan angkuh
seakan-akan melupakan
ikrar yang pernah ku baitkan
   pada-Mu.

Oh! Betapakah hinanya langkah-langkah ini...

P. H. MUHAMMAD ABD. AZIZ
Awal Hijrah 1407

Dari Suara Di Ambang Senja: Antologi Puisi [P. H. Muhammad Abd. Aziz]
Bandar Seri Begawan, Dewan Bahasa dan Pustaka, 1992.
Ex Libris CNB 1354

Books I Love: The Travel Book

The Travel Book (CNB 2012)

The Travel Book; a journey through every country in the world, is a book I dip into every so often. Especially if I am about to go somewhere, or even to nowhere! (Like now when I am being grounded under circumstances beyond my control).

There are 196 independent countries in the world (193 being member countries of the United Nations). But in The Travel Book (a Lonely Planet publication) there are 229 entities because some administrative regions of China (for example), have their own entries and deservedly so because they are unique - Tibet, Macau, Hong Kong ... another example is the United Kingdom, listed under England, Scotland, Wales ... (though Northern Ireland is listed under Ireland with the Republic of Ireland). Never mind about how many countries there are in the world - the politics of countries is so volatile anyway!

This very large coffee table book is a very good introduction to the various countries, with brief citations of the capitals, areas, populations and languages, plus 817 beautiful images of peoples and places altogether. (The book has been classified under 'Travel Photography'). But my favourite sections are the 'Top things to do' and 'Top things to see' in each country, which can serve as part of anyone's plan for their 'been there, done that' experiences around the world.

Ex Libris CNB 1518, 1862

Why I Travel

First, some quotations I particularly like that may sum up my reasons for travelling;
"The World is a book, and those who do not travel read only one page" - St Augustine
"Experience, travel - these are as education in themselves" - Euripides
"Certainly, travel is more than the seeing of sights; it is a change that goes on, deep and permanent, in the ideas of living" - Miriam Beard
"Travel teaches toleration" - Benjamin Disraeli

So why do I travel? Because I want "to feel a sense of the places that I go to, the people and their culture & history". This world we live in is an amazing place, home to so many interesting peoples and their unique history and cultures. We all want to read more than one page of the 'World book'. We all want to be more educated and tolerant about the ways of the world and we all want to change for the better in the ideas of living.

Before travelling anywhere, I usually do a lot of travel reading; hence many books in my library are travelogues (e.g. Spain by the horns, Travelog Haji, A Voyage by dhow) and guidebooks (Lonely Planet, The Rough Guide, Insight Guides, Dorling Kindersley Eyewitness Travel, National Geographic Traveller). You could say that I also 'armchair travel' a lot. I travel vicariously through books and TV (read TLC) too. I still have not been to so many places in this world, but I feel I do have some sense of them anyway through this 'second hand' experience. But of course nothing beats the real thing.

So am I a traveller or a tourist? Is there even a difference? The dictionaries define both quite similarly, except for the emphasis that the tourist does the travelling for pleasure. So I guess if  one travels with a tour group, one is a tourist because everything has been planned for (by the tour company) and one just goes along for the pleasure of enjoying the sights. The independant traveller on the other hand has to plan everything from A to Z, but is free to be flexible and linger anywhere if need be. The traveler has a greater/higher purpose to travel than just for pleasure, perhaps? But can I call myself a traveller if my experiences have really been what the cynics would call 'walks in the park'?

Though we all may travel to the same places, each of our experiences are unique. My postings on travel tell of my very own unique experience of a place, so they will often be titled 'My (place/country name)'. It is my take on the country and some aspects of it I have been privileged to experience.

Travel Souvenirs of All Kinds

Let's start with a few definitions:
A souvenir is 'something that serves as a reminder, eg. of a person, place, or past event; a memento' (The New Penguin English Dictionary).
'A thing taken, bought or received as a gift, and kept to remind one of a person, place or an event (Oxford Advanced Learner's Dictionary/OALD).

So really, whatever serves as a reminder of a place visited/traveled to, is a 'souvenir'. And there are all kinds of them - clothes, especially t-shirts; fabrics, books, crafts including dolls, plates/pottery, tea cloths, trinket boxes, frames, etc., etc. The list is endless. Ubiquitous souvenirs in the form of key chains, fridge magnets and snow/water globes abound in most tourist/traveller's collection. Some may be tacky* (read: cheap), some may be kitschy. But certainly they are all fun! So, happy collecting! And contributing to the economy of the place visited, even in this small way.

* Tacky - 'of poor quality or in poor taste; though perhaps bright and colourful' (OALD)


A display of tacky (?) snow/water globes (CNB 2011)

Fridge magnets, oh so colourful and gaudy! (CNB 2011)

'Fishy' fridge magnet souvenirs from Semporna, Sabah (CNB 2011)

Mini Vietnamese dolls from Hanoi (CNB 2011)

Tacky framed photos - our contribution to the local economy?!! (CNB 2011)

P.S. My favourite souvenirs would be tea cloths - useful, sometimes beautiful, and 'historic', reminding you of a place you have once been to.

A Return Journey by Train

In mid June recently I made a return journey by the KTMB (Keretapi Tanah Melayu Bhd) train to Tanjung Pagar/Singapura just before the closure of the station at the end of the month. This is the log for that journey, made in memory of my father Ba who was working at the Singapore Botanical Gardens before accepting the offer to work with KTM, which he served till compulsory retirement.

9.00 am:  The Express Sinaran Selatan leaves KL Sentral at the precise time.

All Aboard! (2011)

9.30 am: We reach Kajang station. My friends and I have breakfast at the buffet car. It is a bit disappointing really. No more freshly cooked fare on board but nasi lemak, bihun, sandwiches and breads offered in plastic containers.
10.15 am: A five-minute stop at Seremban, Negri Sembilan.
11.10 am: Tampin/Pulau Sebang
11.45 am: Batang Melaka
12.01 pm: We reach Gemas; the railway junction of the KTM train network. I had lived here in the early 60's but the station now is pretty unrecognizable. Anyway I get down to take some photos to remind me of  one of my late father's 'work place'.

Pity there was no time to sit on the lonely bench beside the Gemas station signage.
Maybe next time! In the background they are building the 'double track' (CNB 2011)

Gemas railway station (CNB 2011)

12.43 pm: Segamat, Johor
12.54 pm: At Genuang we stop for another passing train.
1.05 pm: We reach Tenang. Along the railway tracks after this station I notice many tempua (weaver bird) nests on the trees.
1.19 pm: At Labis and after, coffee trees seem to be in abundance.
1.40 pm: Bekok
2.20 pm: Kluang

A KTM railway guard along the Kluang station platform (CNB 2011)

3.05 pm: Kulai
3.30 pm: Kempas Baru
3.40 pm: At JB Sentral, the Malaysian immigration check our travel documents.
4.10 pm: We cross the causeway into Singapore. At Woodlands, we leave the train (with all our luggage, sheesh!) for the Singapore Immigration and Customs check. This took 40 minutes before we boarded the train again (with our luggage in tow) to our final destination across the island.
5.30 pm: We arrive at Tanjong Pagar/Singapura station, passing by the closed Bukit Timah station on the way.

Tanjong Pagar/Singapura Railway Station (CNB 2011)

We were in Singapore for 4 days and then returned to KL Sentral riding the night train, Senandung Sutera at 10.30 pm. We 'forgot' to get down at Woodlands for the immigration check until a knock on the door by a young police/immigration (?) officer reminded us to do so. The sleeping berths were okay; we were also provided towels and toiletries for the shower. I think I slept like a log that night, rocked by the moving train. We reached KL Sentral the next day before 7.00 am.

Arriving in the eerie dawn at KL Sentral (CNB 2011)

Books, Food & Travel

I love books, food and travel, not necessarily in this order.

My home library has about 2000 titles and this figure pales in comparison to others' book collections. I read somewhere that the late film maker Yasmin Ahmad had 8000 in hers and national laureate Muhammad Hj Salleh has a houseful of books. Bookshops are top priority for bibliophiles everywhere, even when travelling in a foreign country, and we can only sigh because there are so many books out there, but so little time...

Inevitably I have quite a number of books on food and travel. Cookbooks especially are usually colourful and attractive and even if one does not do a 'Julia' (remember the girl who cooked her way through all the recipes in Julia Child's cookbook?), just flipping through the pages conjures up heavenly meals eaten in congenial dinner parties. Many books by celebrity chefs now combine the subject of food and travel, usually spin-offs from their tv shows. Think Jamie Oliver, Anthony Bourdain, Bobby Chin, Chef Wan, etc.

There are travel books aplenty now, a boon especialy for the armchair traveller. How else could we experience 'riding the Iron Rooster' or 'the old Patagonian express'. The ability of a traveller to recount his/her journey and convey it in writing is no mean feat. My latest acquisition is "The Tao of Travel" by Paul Theroux, whose 'work remains the standard by which other travel writing must be judged' (Observer).

My own travels have really been 'walks in the park' compared to the adventures of most travel writers. No book would come out of them (my walks, not their adventures!) so maybe I shall just blog my experiences of the 22 countries I have been to (the same number of countries Tony Wheeler, co-founder of Lonely Planet, visited in 1 year, 2010). C'est la vie!