The Sultan Abdul Halim Airport, Kepala Batas

The Sultan Abdul Halim Airport in Kepala Batas, looks still rather new (2006) when we had the occasion to take a flight from there back to Subang early last year. It is 15 km away from the capital of Kedah, Alor Setar.

The architecture of the exterior porch and facade was rather interesting. We also found the interior interesting as well, with branch-like columns. Rather similar to the ones found outside the building though of a different colour. I know I have not described the airport well, so may be these two pictures will help.

Retro: A Langkawi Holiday, 1993

Touchdown at Langkawi Airport (CNB 1993)

It's yesterday once more ... 20 years ago in 1993.  It was a family holiday full of sweet memories and lots of sunburn. After a first visit in 1976 with M, this second visit 17 years later was with two daughters in tow. Flying from Pulau Pinang, it is only a half hour in the air, and the plane is descending into Pulau Langkawi already. My brother AW and his family were already there a few days earlier and they kindly came in a rented van to the airport at Padang Mat Sirat to fetch us and send us to our accommodation at DeLima Resort. Then we went out together to the Air Hangat Cultural Village to have refreshments. I do not remember any cultural activities going on then.

At Air Hangat Village with Bro AW's family (AW 1993)

The next day they had to leave Langkawi and so we took over the van for our tour around the island.

Before starting our round-island tour (CNB 1993)

We did the usual - visiting the historic sites of Mahsuri's Tomb, and the Beras Terbakar (Burnt rice) site at Kg Padang Mat Sirat; the natural wonders of  the black sand beach, and swimming in the sea at Tanjung Rhu, Burau Bay, among other activities.

M, B, A at Makam Mahsuri (CNB 1993)

Swimming in the sea at Tanjung Rhu (CNB 1993)

One night there we celebrated A's 11th birthday at the Resort restaurant. It was a surprise to discover that we were about the only customers then. Maybe the so-so food was the reason? Or we were the last customers as it was quite late? Whatever ... we did enjoy the ice cream and fruit desserts.

Happy 11th, A! (CNB 1993)

Those were lazy days in Langkawi, at the resort, swimming in the pool, mostly.

A pose while walking around the resort (CNB 1993)

The Langkawi Isles always have a special allure and I have been back a few times, also for work (read seminars/conferences). Definitely a favourite local holiday destination.

Pekan Rabu Wednesday Market

Pekan Rabu, Alor Star (CNB 2013

You have not been to Alor Star if you have not shopped at Pekan Rabu! This 'Wednesday Market' or rather everyday bazaar is very well known and beats any modern shopping mall for unique charm. You can find everything under the sun here. Well, almost everything.

Our lightning visit to Alor Star recently enabled us to eat and shop at Pekan Rabu. First there was breakfast with a delicious array of local kueh mueh, nasi lemak, etc., etc.

My Pekan Rabu breakfast (CNB 2013)

We returned here for lunch too because the Menara Alor Star revolving restaurant was closed for renovations. And definitely no regrets here - my lunch plate of white rice and gulai ikan & terung (fish and brinjal curry) was simply so delicious, just like my emak used to make. Sedapnya ...

Lunch from 'Pak Man Nasi ', Pekan Rabu (CNB 2013)

After lunch we went around the bazaar to shop for 'necessities'. This is certainly the place to buy ready made baju Melayu, kurung, tudung, and other clothing. At the dried food shop-lots  I suspect that many of the snack foods sold here come from Thailand. So we sought out the more authentic local foods.

Various levels of Pekan Rabu (CNB 2013)

With a young trader at Pekan Rabu (BB 2013)

We stopped by Fatimah Mehat's shop-lot where she makes kueh karas or 'kekarhaih' in Kedah speak. She seems quite a celebrity, having appeared in newspapers a few times. She also has on display some photos of Che Det aka Tun Dr Mahathir and wife visiting her shop-lot nearly every Ramadhan/Aidil Fitri. A well known fact is that TDM was a trader selling pisang goreng (banana fritters) at Pekan Rabu in his teens. During my Alor Star childhood, I used to sell sagon at Pekan Rabu too. Naah, not true ... just to my schoolmates in the Sultanah Asma Primary School.

Fatimah making kueh karas (CNB 2013)

Freshly made kueh karas (CNB 2013)

Sagon at RM2 in Pekan Rabu. Hey, I sold them at Lima (5)
det/duit in the 50s (CNB 2013)

I debated whether to buy some ikan pekasam or not. This authentic local favourite is a pungent delicacy of fish preserved with salt, rice and tamarind, and is an acquired taste. It is said to taste better the longer it keeps. But my father Ba did not really like it so it was almost 'banned' from our home and I have never eaten it. But he did love another local favourite of salted ikan talang with which my emak made the most delicious gulai ikan kering. Simply delightful!

Ikan pekasam Pekan Rabu (CNB 2013)

It was just a lightning visit to Alor Star and its Pekan Rabu, but we shall return ... insyaallah.
28 January 2013

Alor Setar, Alor Star, Aloq Staq

This capital city of Kedah is spelt Alor Setar, pronounced Alor Star or even Aloq Staq in colloquial Kedah speak! We spent just 13 hours in Alor Star, going there recently by the last Senandung Langkawi express train to stop at the railway station on Jalan Station. I have visited Alor Star a few times after leaving it in early 1960, and every time there was always the thought that I missed something.

B in her upper bunk berth on the Senandung Langkawi
(CNB 2013)

Arriving in Alor Star at  day break (CNB 2013)

After going down memory lane or rather Station Road where I used to live in the 50s, we headed for the town centre to have breakfast at the very well known bazaar - Pekan Rabu (literally translated as Wednesday Market, but open all week long). This central part of town has been spruced up and there are Kedah flags/buntings all over to celebrate the recent birthday of the Sultan (now also the YDP Agong).

Along Jalan Tunku Ibrahim, where Pekan Rabu is (BB 2013)

The Pekan Rabu  complex building (CNB 2013)

We sought other Alor Star landmarks nearby, especially the historic ones. We found most in the city centre, along Jalan Pekan Melayu. The beautiful Masjid Zahir (Zahir Mosque) of Moorish architecture was built in 1912. It is one of the oldest mosques in the country. This 101 year old state mosque has been been spruced up and the distinctive black domes that I still remember are now copper brown.

The beautiful Zahir Mosque (CNB 2013)

Just across the road we went into the Muzium Diraja Kedah (Royal Museum), in a beautiful building which used to be the palace of the Sultans of Kedah from 1735 to 1935. Our 'Bapa Malaysia' Tunku Abdul Rahman was also raised here. The exhibits trace the history of the Kedah sultanate, oldest in the country, which started in 1136.

The Royal Museum (BB 2013)

Just next door is the Balai Besar (Great Hall), a heritage building built in 1893, during the reign of Sultan Abdul Hamid Halim Shah. The original structure was built in 1735 by the founder of Alor Star, Sultan Muhammad Jiwa Zainal Abidin, 19th ruler of Kedah Sultanate, as the Balai Rong Seri or Audience Hall.

The Balai Besar (CNB 2013)

The Balai Seni Negeri (State Art Gallery) is in a colonial style building built in 1893 and originally accommodating a court house. From 1912-1983 it housed various government departments, before being converted into the State Art Gallery in conjunction with the Silver Jubilee of the reign of Tunku Abdul Halim Mu'adzam Shah. Pity we did not really have the time to check out the exhibits of Kedah artists/artisans here or to lepak at the Dataran (Square) close by.

Dataran Alor Star & Balai Seni Negeri  (CNB 2013)

The Istana Kota Tengah Arch replica is sited between the Balai Besar and Balai Nobat. The original arch formerly adorned the Kota Tengah Palace of Sultan Abdul Hamid Halim Shah, 26th Sultan of Kedah (1882-1943). It had been demolished to make way for the Wisma Negeri.

Istana Kota Tengah arch (CNB 2013)

The Balai Nobat is a ceremonial tower topped with an Islamic-style dome which houses the instruments of the Royal Orchestra. The unique, almost 'haunting' music of nobat is most interesting to listen to. But of course it is only played during special royal occasions. Originally five storeys, the Balai Nobat was built during the reign of Sultan Ahmad Tajuddin Mukarram Shah (1854-1879), but a 1906 renovation/reconstruction reduced it to three storeys.

Balai Nobat (CNB 2013)

Galleria Sultan Abdul Halim (Sultan Abdul Halim Gallery) was formerly the Mahkamah Tinggi/High Court building. It is another colonial building but with Roman columns, built in 1922. It houses the personal collection of the Sultan, official documents, palace attire and accessories. The Gallery is just next to the Balai Nobat.

Galleria Sultan Abdul Halim (CNB 2013)

Bangunan Jam Besar (Big Clock Building) is the clock tower across the road from Balai Nobat. It was built about the same time as Masjid Zahir. The detail on its door/entrance is quite exquisite.

The Big Clock tower (CNB 2013)

Rather nearby along Jalan Kancut is another tower - a relatively very new one built between 1995-1998.  Menara Alor Star (Alor Star Tower) is a prominent landmark because it soars above the city skyline. Architecturally, the design of this telecommunications tower is representative of a bunch of padi stalks tied together. The observation deck affords a panoramic view of Alor Star and its environs. We had planned to have our lunch here, but unfortunately the revolving restaurant was closed, so we had to find another place to have lunch.

Menara Alor Star (CNB 2013)

Of course there is much more* to see and experience in this capital of Kedah ('rice bowl of Malaysia'), but for thirteen hours in Alor Star, I think we did pretty darn well. And it helped that all these landmarks were within the city centre.

*Rumah Merdeka, Rumah Kelahiran Mahathir Mohamad, Bangunan Wan Muhammad Saman, Istana Kuning, Pejabat Pos Besar, Masjid Albukhary, Tugu ... etc., etc.
28 January 2013

Nostalgia: Alor Star Station & Railway Quarters

The Alor Star railway station on the morning of 28 Jan 2013
(CNB 2013)

Beginning tomorrow, the Alor Star* Railway Station will operate from a temporary (and later new) site. But we hope the beautiful old station building will be preserved and not demolished altogether. Its proximity to Alor Star's CBD makes the site very attractive and we know that history and heritage often times have to make way for 'development'. Hopefully its not the case with this colonial style building constructed between 1912-1915.

The AS station clock tower (CNB 2013)

This railway station building is particularly dear to me because it was my childhood playground in the 50s. My father Ba worked with Keretapi Tanah Melayu (now KTMB) and I was born at 20 Railway Quarters, just a stone's throw across from this station. I remember that sometimes my older siblings and I would have  roti bakar with kaya  and hot Ovaltine drinks at the canteen here with Ba and his friend Uncle Kam Kee and his children.

I made the split second decision of going back to Alor Star by train when I saw a news flash about the Alor Star railway station operating from a new site on the 29th January 2013. It was my last chance of arriving 'home' by train. Just like my father used to do before.

Its a long ten hour train journey from KL Sentral, but the night train 'Senandung Langkawi' enabled us to sleep our way to Alor Star! Buying train tickets just a day before the journey meant that there were only berths on the upper bunk available. But lucky for me, on the train, a very nice UM student, offered me her berth on the lower bunk. Thanks to June of Sungai Petani, I had a good sleep before arriving 'home' (Alor Star) at 7.15 am on the 28th January.

B and I on arrival at Alor Star  railway station

Seeing the old house that used to be home invokes many beautiful memories of a railway childhood in Alor Star. But time has ravaged the  row of houses on Jalan Station (Station Road). They now look quite abandoned - so dilapidated and probably just awaiting the demolition squad. Jalan Station used to be quite a busy road but seems no longer so. I recall being knocked down by a bicycle while crossing this road to the station opposite, and the very apologetic young fellow perpetrator received an earful from Ba. The young fellow and I became friends, got married later and live happily ever after. No, I just made up this story about us being friends, etc. ... but, the being knocked down by his bicycle is true!

Railway Quarters, Jalan Station, Alor Star (CNB 2013)

Postbox with the address of my childhood home in the 50s
(CNB 2013)

The row of rain trees along this road must be nearly a century old because I remember they were very big even then in the 50s. Unfortunately there are fewer trees now so some must have been cut down. There seems to be so many changes in the station area, and to me, its mostly not for the better. OK, okay, everything changes and I was also very young once upon a time in Alor Star!

The century old rain trees along Jalan Station (CNB 2013)

 We spent the rest of the day visiting some Alor Star landmarks before 'Fireflying' back from the Sultan Abdul Halim Airport in Kepala Batas to Subang and home (Shah Alam) the same evening.

P.S. I'm glad Osman Ali featured the Alor Star Railway Station in his very successful box-office Malay film Ombak Rindu. I know that some people refer to this station as "Station Ombak Rindu". 

* I still prefer to use the old spelling of Alor Star because it is pronounced so. One does not actually say Alor Se-tar, but Alor Star! Or Aloq Staq in deep Kedah speak!

A House & Garden in Sik

First things first. Sik, the town in the district of the same name in Kedah, is pronounced as in the English 'sake', not 'sick'! This is what the locals there always remind you, if you are not saying it right, as some newscasters are wont to do on national television.

Anyway, about the house and garden in Sik. One of my siblings AE is married to a Sik lass and so lives there with his family of five children. They live in the house her late father bequeathed her, and its pretty big and spacious. (Once I slept in the huge guest room that just had too many shadows in the large spaces - it was just spooky and I did not sleep well all night!)

With Sis CY, nephew NI & Bro AE 

Bro AE has green fingers and grows a fairly nice garden. But as he pointed out to me, except for the pond that had to have the earth dug out, the rest of his garden grows on batas or mounds/beds of earth carefully planned around the driveway, around the peripheries and other spaces in between as necessary. No need for any back breaking digging; just throw some flower seeds on the batas and watch the plants grow. So simple, ah?

Bro AE's son by the pond (CNB 2008)

Posing by a flower bed 

At the back of the house is a river and sometimes you can harvest siput sedut (an edible snail) there. The river did overflow its banks some years ago and the flood waters submerged and destroyed quite a bit of furniture in the house. Hopefully it will not happen again.

When in Sik, there is the Peranginan Sik, Hutan Lipur/Rimba Rekreasi Lata Mengkuang (Recreational Forest) and the man-made Beris Lake. And do not forget Beris Vineyards, for a taste of locally grown grapes.

Hutan Lipur Lata Mengkuang (AE 2008)

Just lepak-ing by Beris Lake

Dec 2008 etc.

Legendary Langkawi in the Andaman Sea

The 99 isles that make up Langkawi is a favourite destination of many Malaysians (and some foreign visitors). Every so often the legendary isles seem to be calling out over the Andaman Sea to come visit again, and again.

Looking back, a most memorable visit was in 1976. When there was no pollution in the seas then (I think), no large scale development, no sky bridge or cable cars, or gigantic stone eagle, and the place not yet overrun by tourists (duty-free status only from 1986, ma). There were the small, local hotels, not any international resorts yet, and we got to stay at the good old colonial era Rest House in Kuah, on the main island, Pulau Langkawi; where the food served was legendary (sedaaap!).

Even going to the Langkawi islands was by the slow boat. Definitely no international airport then!

On the slow boat to legendary Langkawi (CNB 1976)

The most famous of legends here is of course the white-blooded, wronged maiden Mahsuri, who with her dying breath, cursed Langkawi for seven generations. Most everyone visits her grave, and we were no exception. (You have not been to Langkawi if you have not visited Mahsuri! So they say.... so we did.)

With my siblings AW, AG, ZA at Mahsuri's grave (MB 1976)

The many beaches of Pulau Langkawi (Tanjung Rhu, Tengah, Cenang, etc.) are pristine white except for the Black Sand Beach lah, it is pristine black! They all just invited you to languish there a while, soaking up sun and sea. Even to barbecue quail birds, bought from a local fisherman supplementing his income. The birds were just deliciously finger-licking good!

Languishing on a beached boat near Kuah (AW 1976)

BBQing quails at Tanjung Rhu beach (AW 1976)

Checking out the Black Sand Beach with Bro AG (MB 1976)

Just being on the main island of Langkawi is never enough - there are the other 98 islands to explore. So island hopping is a must every time. There is the legendary Lake of the Pregnant Maiden to swim in on Pulau Dayang Bunting, though be careful that what you wish for - to become pregnant - might just come true. There are the white sands of Pulau Singa Besar, Pulau Beras Basah, and others, and the crystal clear waters around every other island that enable you to see the colourful fishes swimming around.

Swimming in Tasik Dayang Bunting (CNB 1976)

Just wading about in the turquoise waters while island
hopping (CNB 1976)

For most of our boat trips, we hired Pak Mat to take us around. He was a fisherman who had lived here in Pulau Langkawi all his life, and supplemented his income by taking visitors like us island hopping or getting around the big island to scenic places like the Telaga Tujuh (Seven Wells waterfalls). The fake Langkawi Falls is another, much later story.

L-R: AW, Pak Mat, M, AG & ZA (CNB 1976)

Telaga Tujuh (CNB 1976)

Boat overloaded with local revelers leaving Telaga
 Tujuh (CNB 1976)

Pak Mat was a very friendly man and invited us to his house to meet his family. We got to meet not only his wife and children, but also his grandchildren and the numerous neighbourhood boys and girls of the kampung. (Maybe the 'Mat Salleh' was a curious draw!?)

Kampung boy starkers, and girls (CNB 1976)

With Pak Mat, his wife, grandchildren and their
neighbourhood gang (MB 1976)

By the time we left Langkawi then, we knew somehow that someday, we would return. Must be the panggilan pulau or the islands calling ... calling ...

Bell-bottomed silhouettes against the Langkawi sunset
(AW 1976)

December 1976