Sunday 2 December 2012

Legendary Langkawi in the Andaman Sea

The 99 isles that make up Langkawi is a favourite destination of many Malaysians (and some foreign visitors). Every so often the legendary isles seem to be calling out over the Andaman Sea to come visit again, and again.

Looking back, a most memorable visit was in 1976. When there was no pollution in the seas then (I think), no large scale development, no sky bridge or cable cars, or gigantic stone eagle, and the place not yet overrun by tourists (duty-free status only from 1986, ma). There were the small, local hotels, not any international resorts yet, and we got to stay at the good old colonial era Rest House in Kuah, on the main island, Pulau Langkawi; where the food served was legendary (sedaaap!).

Even going to the Langkawi islands was by the slow boat. Definitely no international airport then!

On the slow boat to legendary Langkawi (CNB 1976)

The most famous of legends here is of course the white-blooded, wronged maiden Mahsuri, who with her dying breath, cursed Langkawi for seven generations. Most everyone visits her grave, and we were no exception. (You have not been to Langkawi if you have not visited Mahsuri! So they say.... so we did.)

With my siblings AW, AG, ZA at Mahsuri's grave (MB 1976)

The many beaches of Pulau Langkawi (Tanjung Rhu, Tengah, Cenang, etc.) are pristine white except for the Black Sand Beach lah, it is pristine black! They all just invited you to languish there a while, soaking up sun and sea. Even to barbecue quail birds, bought from a local fisherman supplementing his income. The birds were just deliciously finger-licking good!

Languishing on a beached boat near Kuah (AW 1976)

BBQing quails at Tanjung Rhu beach (AW 1976)

Checking out the Black Sand Beach with Bro AG (MB 1976)

Just being on the main island of Langkawi is never enough - there are the other 98 islands to explore. So island hopping is a must every time. There is the legendary Lake of the Pregnant Maiden to swim in on Pulau Dayang Bunting, though be careful that what you wish for - to become pregnant - might just come true. There are the white sands of Pulau Singa Besar, Pulau Beras Basah, and others, and the crystal clear waters around every other island that enable you to see the colourful fishes swimming around.

Swimming in Tasik Dayang Bunting (CNB 1976)

Just wading about in the turquoise waters while island
hopping (CNB 1976)

For most of our boat trips, we hired Pak Mat to take us around. He was a fisherman who had lived here in Pulau Langkawi all his life, and supplemented his income by taking visitors like us island hopping or getting around the big island to scenic places like the Telaga Tujuh (Seven Wells waterfalls). The fake Langkawi Falls is another, much later story.

L-R: AW, Pak Mat, M, AG & ZA (CNB 1976)

Telaga Tujuh (CNB 1976)

Boat overloaded with local revelers leaving Telaga
 Tujuh (CNB 1976)

Pak Mat was a very friendly man and invited us to his house to meet his family. We got to meet not only his wife and children, but also his grandchildren and the numerous neighbourhood boys and girls of the kampung. (Maybe the 'Mat Salleh' was a curious draw!?)

Kampung boy starkers, and girls (CNB 1976)

With Pak Mat, his wife, grandchildren and their
neighbourhood gang (MB 1976)

By the time we left Langkawi then, we knew somehow that someday, we would return. Must be the panggilan pulau or the islands calling ... calling ...

Bell-bottomed silhouettes against the Langkawi sunset
(AW 1976)

December 1976

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