Little India in Paris

We knew from friends who had visited Paris before that there are many Indian eateries around the Gare du Nord. So from Versailles, our destination was this train station in search of curry, briani, roti (paratha) ... As we exited the La Chapelle metro station (by accident, not by design), we ran right smack into ... India! We did not expect to find (Little) India in Paris, with shops and outlets selling and smelling Indian everything - sari, henna, spices, textile, music, curios, food, etc.

Shihabdeen's is a Sri Lankan et Indienne Resturant. We found a nearly full house at this eatery so it must serve good food because nearly all the customers there were Indians (including Sri Lankans, Pakistanis?). The tandoori was quite good although I did not really like the chicken curry - too much spices in it. The others seemed to enjoy their food too. After the meal, we walked around Mumbai Jaffna the area and forgot we were in Paris, France, Europe.

Saris & Such in Little India, Klang

For colourful sights, heady smells, and sounds of Hindi/Tamil songs, head for the Little Indias, of which the one in Klang seems the place to be. Jalan Tengku Kelana, in this royal town of Selangor, is the heart of Little India and the shops here are brimming with everything Indian - saris, bangles, flower garlands, banana leaf meals, herbs & spices, sweets & candies, gold jewelry, etc, etc. But of course the people are more interesting, from the macha and mamak at the restaurants to the Jasmine garland weavers and the fortune tellers on five foot ways.

One of the many shops selling colourful saris (CNB 2013)

A fortune telling partnership of man and his parakeet (CNB)

A sundry shop and a pile of betel nut leaves (CNB 2013)

Flowers - who can resist flowers? In Little India, charming old ladies sit by the five-foot path of shops, stringing fragrant Jasmine buds. A man or two also do this. Beautiful yellow garlands of marigold and chrysanthemum decorate a few shopfronts, although some are plastic! But at the side street of Lorong Tingkat, some twenty stalls sell fresh flowers, garlands and wreaths for all occasions. Very, very colourful indeed!

Mariar, the Jasmine lady, smiles for my camera 

Yellow marigold  & chrysanthemum flower garlands

By the flower stalls along Lorong Tingkat (MB 2013)

When in Little India, definitely have a banana leaf lunch. But before that snack on delicious vadei and pakora as you walk around. And after your lunch, don't forget to get your desserts from the shops or stalls - gulab jamun, jalebi, laddu, coconut candy, and other Indian sweets and candies. Come Deepavali (in November), Little India is sure to be more colourful, so maybe then we'll make a trip to Klang again.

My banana leaf meal (CNB 2013)

A sweet, sweet stall (CNB 2013)

30 August 2013

A Tribute to Love

A Happy Valentine's Day to all who celebrate this day of Lurrve ..., but then everyday is a day of Love. We all thrive on love ... of all kinds.

One of the Seven Wonders of the World is synonymous with love and romance. In fact the whole world knows that the Taj Mahal in Agra is the epitome of love. Of one man, Emperor Shah Jahan for his beloved wife Mumtaz Mahal. This monument of exquisite beauty and grandeur is their final resting place.

Note: Today is also Seri Aryan's 5th Anniversary.

Happy Deepavali

Making breakfast in Delhi (CNB 2011)

Deepavali Valthugal!
Here's wishing all who celebrate, a very Happy Deepavali. To our kind friends in India, who made our trip there in November last year most memorable, our greetings and may you and families enjoy the celebrations. May there be joy, prosperity, peace and enlightenment. Especially to Mr Babu pictured here in our host's kitchen, thank you for cooking the delicious parathas for breakfast and the nice 'curries' for dinner.

"Perfumed Gardens" by Rafiee Ghani

Catalogue of Perfumed Gardens by Rafiee Ghani (CNB 2012)

With my niece in tow, yesterday I went to the Galeri Chandan in Bukit Damansara to see the "Perfumed Gardens" exhibition of the art works of Rafiee Ghani. It was inspired by his four months sojourn in India last year, March to June, I think. I went to India in November and so was very curious to see his creative perspective of this country. I am no art critic but as the artist himself stated, "It's about feeling". I really feel that the paintings are most evocative of the 'hidden' India - beautiful, though maybe forgotten or neglected gardens that abound in the ancient forts, palaces, and tombs, especially of the Mughal era. Then there is decaying Old Delhi and the life that must go on for its inhabitants.

I must apologise because my pictures here (of some pieces at the exhibition) do not do justice to the vibrant colours that are Rafiee Ghani's signature style. We all know he is a brilliant colourist. So if you have the opportunity, do go see this beautiful collection of paintings. I'm sure you will come away feeling that you must visit/revisit India.

Rafiee Ghani's Moon Lake, oil on canvas (CNB 2012)
This is one of my favourite pieces.

RG's The Milk Maids, oil on canvas (CNB 2012)
Another favourite piece.

The paintings of Rafiee Ghani were oil on canvas and mixed media on paper, mainly. There was also two walls with his sketches and photographs of Indian images taken with his 3G phone. There were his Moleskine sketchbooks (of the Red Fort and India Gate), unfortunately then, under glass. But I understand, because they were for sale at RM21,000. The paintings were in the range of RM4,000 to RM32,000, if I am not mistaken. But believe me, they would look good in any living room.

RG's The King goes Hunting, mixed media on paper
 (CNB 2012) 

RG's Fly-by, mixed media on paper (CNB 2012)

RG's Saffron Sky, mixed media on paper (CNB 2012)

The Goa series by Rafiee Ghani, oil on canvas (CNB 2012)

RG's Fire in the Mountains, oil on canvas (CNB 2012)

Photo prints and sketches by Rafiee Ghani (CNB 2012)

RG's The Rose Gate, oil on canvas (CNB 2012)
Yet another favourite piece.

RG's Hope Valley, oil on canvas (CNB 2012)

Posing with Rafiee Ghani's The Girls always Visit and Kiss
the Girls, both oil on canvas (2012)

27 January 2012

My India: Jaipur, Amber, Delhi

Day 8: Monday 7 November 2011

A peacock silhouetted in the Jaipur dawn (RMN 2011)

It is Idul Zuha (Aidil Adha) in India today, and we are in Jaipur, Rajasthan. I had put on my new (very stiffly starched, almost salmon-pink) shalwar kameez bought just yesterday, to celebrate in a way, both Idul Zuha and this 'Pink City'. Mr Rama and his recommended Jaipur guide, Mr Shiv were already waiting bright and early, to show us the city and its attractions.

Jaipur (the city of jai, or victory) is famous as a 'pink city', painted in this traditional colour of  welcome in honour of the 1883 visit of Prince Albert. The city was laid out in 1728 in a simple grid pattern by Bhattacharya, architect to Maharaja Sawai Jai Singh II. This Rajasthani capital has buildings and sites of flamboyant Rajput architecture, including the Hawa Mahal (Palace of Winds), the City Palace and Museum, and the Jantar Mantar observatory.

The Hawa Mahal, built in 1799, is the most photographed sight in Jaipur. 'A five-floored confection of domed balconies, delicate cupolas and pierced stone jali screens, all painted Jaipur's trademark salmon pink, it is not in fact, a palace, but an extraordinary facade of 953 airy niches and windows, used by the royal women in purdah (secluded from the public) to watch the outside world of the streets below'. (The biggest bazaar is just opposite, so there must have been plenty of action that these royal ladies could observe!). This 'palace of the winds' extends to the Zenana (women's chambers) of the City Palace.

Hawa Mahal (RMN 2011)

With RMN & DFH in front of the Hawa Mahal

The Jantar Mantar or astronomical observatory of Jaipur, built in 1716, is immediately behind the Hawa Mahal. It is made up of 16 colossal geometric structures which Maharaja Jai Singh, a keen astronomer, used to calculate celestial latitudes and planetry movements. The Bihat Samrat Yantra is an enormous sundial within the complex. In between the traditional Palaces, Jantar Mantar did seem surreal, a scientific marvel quite out of place in the pink city. 

The Ram yantra/instrument to calculate the altitude & azimuth
 of celestial bodies (DFH 2011)

At the Astrology signs, Jantar Mantar (RMN 2011)

The City Palace is in the centre of Jaipur's grid plan and is still the residence of the royal family today. It was built beginning in the 18th century, and added to in subsequent eras, fusing Rajput and Mughal architectural motifs.

At the Gatewy to the City Palace (Mr Rama 2011)

Waiting with the locals for entry tickets into the City Palace (RMN 2011)

The City Palace complex has the Chandra Mahal (royal residence and museum), the Mubarak Mahal (now a museum of textiles and royal costumes), the Maharani's Palace (now a museum of weapons), and Diwan-i-Khas that has among its treasures, two large sterling silver urns that the Maharaja brought on a trip to England in 1901 that carried water from the Ganges River. The palace complex promotes the arts and crafts of Rajasthan with artisans working/demonstrating their skills in miniature painting, silver and gold jewellery, cloissone bronze/copperware, blue pottery,  marble artifacts, textile printing and puppetry.

In the Jaipur Palace complex, residence of the royals in
the background (Mr Shiv 2011)

At the Peacock doorway (RMN 2011)

In the afternoon, after checking out of the Jaipur Inn and having our lunch there, we went to the Amber Fort, 11km/7m from Jaipur. Tourists usually take the painted elephants up to the fort, but we had to contend with Mr Rama's car, because it was a rather hot day, and we did not have the leisure of time as we would be making our way back to Delhi. The Amber Fort has massive gateways, pillared pavillions and palaces that recall the glory and wealth of Amber's association with the Mughals. (Raja Man Singh was the commander-in-chief of Akbar's army, while Mirza Raja Jai Singh was a powerful ally of Jahangir.)

At the entrance to the Amber
Fort Palace (Mr Shiv 2012)

The Garden within the Amber Fort moat (DFH 2011)

After the Amber Fort, our guide took us to a handloom factory outlet to observe the hand printing of Rajasthani textiles using carved wood blocks to pattern the fabrics. We could also observe the grinding, shaping and polishing of semi-precious stones. It was almost dusk when we dropped off our guide and continued our journey back to Delhi.

Village along the Delhi- Agra route (RMN 2011)

Another village along the same route (RMN 2011)

All along the Jaipur-Delhi highway there were 'thousands' of lorries, and our daredevil Mr Rama weaved in and out of these lorries, sometimes making us pretty nervous! Once he stopped the car at an intersection, engine running, for a quick dash biobreak, leaving us to face the glare of oncoming lorries! But we survived the ordeal and arrived in Delhi well before midnight. Babu had dinner ready and waiting for us, how really sweet!

Day 9: Tuesday 8 November 2011

Back in Delhi we spent the morning visiting the Bahai house of worship or Lotus Temple, set in a beautiful garden. As usual, there were hordes of school children and local visitors as well. It was interesting to note that the temple has no alter, and all may sit and ... in the main prayer area. After the Lotus Temple we went along Rajpath (Kingsway) to take pictures of the Rashtrapati Bhavan (Presidential residence).

Schoolgirls leaving after visiting the Lotus Temple (CNB 2011)

With Afgan couple, Masume & Reza, at the Lotus Temple
(Couple's friend 2011)

Gate of the Rashtrapati Bhavan (CNB 2011)

Official white Hindustan Ambassadors lining up along the government
building in Rajpath (pic borrowed from C Haugen at Wikipedia)

Then we went on to Connaught Place, to the Jain Book Depot for books - yay! Books are pretty cheap in India and in all I bought 17 to take home. Among the books I bought were City of Djinns by William Dalrymple, Delhi, a novel and The Company of Women by Khushwant Singh, Revolution 2020 by the best-selling author Chetan Bhagat, The Postmaster and Selected Poems by Rabindranath Tagore and a book on the Ramayana. We had lunch at another vegetarian restaurant, Sagar Ratna, at Connaught Place. The three-ring circular shopping arcade of Connaught Place (aka Rajiv Chowk) forms the heart of modern Delhi. The colonnaded corridors were built for the British to shop in style. But now it is a bit chaotic, as a lot of construction was going on because they were doing extensive renovations there.

A book corner amidst construction at Connaught Place (CNB 2011)

Day 10: Wednesday 9 November 2011

In the morning we went to the Indira Gandhi Memorial Museum, at the bungalow she used to live in, in Safdarjang Road. She was killed by her own bodyguards on the morning of  31 October 1984, when she was walking on her usual daily path. There are exhibits of her rise to Prime Ministership and her activities as PM, and also of her sons Rajiv and Sanjay. There were many school groups visiting, as usual, to gape at the rooms she used to live in and that had been frozen in time.

One exhibit was this caricature of Indira Gandhi (CNB 2011)

The Library in Indira Gandhi's study. Infact there were books
in every room! (DFH 2011)

This glass walkway marks the path of Indira's last moments
(DFH 2011)

Schoolboys at the Indira Gandhi Memorial Museum (CNB 2011)

Then we went to the National Museum on Janpath Road, where there were even more school groups (good for them!). This museum is noted for its Indian sculpture and jewellery collections, Chola bronzes, and a Buddhist Gallery. The famous small bronze statue of a dancing girl found at Mohenjodaro is among its important artefacts. This time lunch was at Nizam's Kathi Kabab (I had lamb biryani) at Connaught Place, after which was shopping (again) at Janpath Market.

Day 11: Thursday 10 November 2011

On our last morning in India, Babu made vegetable parathas for our breakfast. Really delicious with pickles and chutney. (I hope the baksheesh we gave him was generous enough for this very pleasant man.) Later we went out to the Gandhi Smriti (Memorial to Mahatma Gandhi) but found it closed because today is a public holiday to celebrate the birthday of Guru Nanak, the founder of Sikhism. We just managed to take some pictures of  the Mahatma's statue. Outside along the pavement, was a lone vendor loitering about selling trinkets and books about and by him (Gandhi, not the loitering vendor, of course). I bought his 'The Story of my Experiments with Truth'.

Vegetable parathas for breakfast, courtesy of Babu (CNB 2011)

Our lunch was at Saravana Bhavan (again, though this time I had paneer dosa) and a final shopping spree at Janpath Market, before going back to pack our bags (which inevitably have multiplied), and head to the airport for our 10.55 pm flight home. Lucky we went early because security was very tight there and online check-in was a great big hassle.

Namaste/Farewell incredible !ndia, but I hope to visit again, maybe this time to ride the Indian Railways around the subcontinent. A big maybe, but who knows?

My India: Sikandra, Agra, Fatehpur Sikri

Day Six: Saturday 5 November 2011

At 6.45 am we set out for Agra (in the state of Uttar Pradesh), in a car driven by Mr Rama aka Ram Singh (kindly arranged by DNA, thank you!). After a journey of nearly 5 hours, and just 12km/7m before Agra, we stopped at Sikandra to visit Akbar's Tomb. Akbar the Great, the 3rd Mughal emperor who ruled from 1556-1605, practised a policy of religious tolerance that brought the Hindus and Muslims together. He was a patron of literature and the arts even though he was illiterate. He founded Fatehpur Sikri and also designed his own final resting place. Akbar's mausoleum is 4 storeys high, the first 3 of sandstone, and the final (containing the false tomb) of white marble. The real tomb is in a crypt below. Around the gardens, Blackbuck deer roam freely.

One of the many, many colourful painted lorries along Indian
roads/highways. At their backs, the signs usually say 'Horn please',
'Blow Horn', so there is plenty of  'horn' noises along the way!
(CNB 2011)

Akbar's tomb building (CNB 2011)

Akbar's real tomb in the crypt below (DFH 2011)

Blackbuck deer roam the grounds of Akbar's Mausoleum
(CNB 2011)

The moment we reached Agra, Mr Rama's car broke down. But luck was on our side. A taxi driven by a Mr Salamat (Malay/Bahasa Indonesia pun intended) happened by and we changed transport to check-in at our hotel, the Crystal Retreat. Then Mr Salamat (& Mr Rama) safely delivered us to the Taj Mahal, the prime reason for my wanting to make this trip to India.

The first time seeing this very recognisable monument, this world wonder, this tribute to love, was magical, despite the huge crowds of local and foreign tourists (hey, that includes us!). Although it was getting dark, we patiently queued up (after our local guide Dinesh manouvered us into a gap in the throng of people, err... my nice way of saying he made us jump queue) to get into the tomb chamber. Two tombs actually, because the Emperor Shah Jahan who built the mausoleum for his wife Mumtaz Mahal was also buried here. The Taj Mahal, a grandiose garden tomb in white marble and of perfect proportions, also had beautiful details of delicate pietra dura inlays of semi-precious stones. It represents the apex of Mughal architecture.

In front of a Wonder of the World - the Taj Mahal
(Our guide Dinesh 2011)

The Taj Mahal from the mosque on its left side (DFH 2011)

The Taj Mahal from across the Jumna/Yamuna River
(Agra photo-wallah 2011)

Me in my Agra souvenir - a marble pietra dura frame
(CNB 2011)

On leaving the Taj Mahal in the dark, I nearly got my foot scrunched by a rickshaw, but its okay, because it was my fault trying to avoid a dog, and the rickshaw-wallah apologised profusely. After visiting the Agra Marble Shoppy (sic) where we saw how pietra dura was done, Mr Salamat walked us back to his taxi a distance away. We had biryani dinner at The Silk Route Restaurant in Fatehabad Road before retiring.

Rajasthani puppets and elephant mobiles in 'The Silk Route'
(CNB 2011)

DFH & RMN and biryani dinner at 'The Silk Route' (CNB 2011)

Day Seven: Sunday 6 November 2011

After our in-room breakfast, we left early for the Agra Fort, another magnificent monument of Mughal architecture and a World Heritage site. The fort was Akbar's first major building project, built between 1565-1575. Shah Jahan added to it in the next century.

Agra street grafitti (CNB 2011)

At the Akbari Darwaza/Amar Singh Gate entrance into the
Agra Fort (AF photo-wallah 2011)

The Darshani Gate of Agra Fort (Mr Islamuddin 2011)

Within the Agra Fort, among the important buildings are the Jahangiri Mahal, Diwan-i-Am, Diwan-i-Khas, Khas Mahal, the Golden Pavilions, Machchi Bhawan, Mina Masjid, Shah Jahan's Apartment, Musamman Burj, Pachisi Court, and Throne Terrace. In fact there was originally 500 buildings in the Fort, but now only very few remain.

Jahangiri Mahal, despite its name, was built by Akbar. It is the
earliest palace extant. (CNB 2011)

Jahangiri Mahal interior view detail (CNB 2011)

Posy posy pics at Agra Fort 

The 48 large pillars of the Diwan-i-Am or Public Audience Hall,
 built by Shah Jahan.  (CNB 2011)

The Throne Chamber of the Diwan-i-Am (CNB 2011)

The Machchi Bhawan or Fish Palace, so called because the Court
originally had marble tanks and fountains in which gold and silver fish
were kept for the Emperor's amusement (CNB 2011)

Namaste from the Machchi Bhawan, Agra Fort (DFH 2011)

On the Takt-e Jahangiri (black throne) with a local couple

The Khas Mahal (CNB 2011)

The Roshanara Pavillion, on the right, is one of the Golden Pavilions (the other
being the Jahanara). Both were built for the daughters of Shah Jahan (CNB 2011)

Nagina Masjid or the Women's Mosque where only the Emperor
and selected ladies of the Royal Court prayed in (CNB 2011)

The balcony of the octagonal chamber at the Musamman Burj from which the imprisoned
Shah Jahan used to gaze at the Taj Mahal across the River Jumna/Yamuna. He died here in the
presence of his daughter Jahanara and a few other royal ladies (CNB 2011)

Fountain inside the Musamman Burj (CNB 2011)

At the Anguri Bagh/Grape Garden in Agra Fort (2011)

 
We went for lunch (biryani gosht & chai masala) at the Indiana Restaurant. At the entrance we were greeted by a Rajasthani musician and young male dancer. He invited us to dance with him and we obliged (being the good sports that we are, ahem!). Later we shopped at a store nearby that sold everything from clothes and jewellery to miniature paintings, of which I bought a pair, of Shah Jahan and Mumtaz Mahal.

Trying our hands/feet at the Rajasthan dance (Mr Salamat 2011)

After lunch we went on to Fatehpur Sikri, Akbar's imperial capital for 16 years before it was abandoned due to the water running out (or more likely for strategic reasons). This 'ghost city' is 37km west of Agra. The imperial palace complex has 15 important buildings including the Diwan-i-Am, Diwan-i-Khas, Panch Mahal, Turkish Sultana's pavilion, Maryam's House, Jodh Bai's Palace, Nagina Masjid, etc.

In the auto-rickshaw to Fatehpur Sikri site (Mr Rama 2011)

Diwan-i-Khas, Fatehpur Sikri (2011)

Carved pillar inside the Diwan-i-Khas, FS (2011)

Panch Mahal in the background (2011)

With friendly locals at Fatehpur Sikri (Mr Dinesh 2011)

Leaving the imperial complex, we visited the Jama Masjid, where the Chishti Tomb of Sheikh Salim is located. The Chishtis were a sub-sect of the Sufis, and greatly revered saints include Sheikh Salim of Fatehpur Sikri. Devotees seeking his blessings have traditionally tied threads to the jalis of his dargah. We were invited to do so, but politely declined because this practise is not the norm outside of India and some Middle East countries. In the very short distance between the imperial complex and the Jama Masjid, there were many very persuasive trinket sellers, so we end up buying bangles, etc. We also noticed the many goats to be sacrificed for tomorrow's Aidil Adha, some adorned with henna and beads!

A sacrificial goat, all prettied up (DFH 2011)

The Badshahi Darwaza/Gate of the Jama Masjid
at Fatehpur Sikri (2011)

The white marble Chishti tomb building (Guide 2011)

While we were at Fatehpur Sikri, Mr Rama's car was fixed so we said shukriya (thank you) & namaste (goodbye) to Mr Salamat and continued our journey of the Indian golden triangle to Jaipur, in the state of Rajasthan. Along the way we saw a few wedding parties, so it must have been an auspicious day for marriages. It was foggy, but we could still make out the farms, small towns, and beasts of burden (donkeys, camels, horses, even bullock carts and tractors) on our route. We reached Jaipur at night, had dinner (I had masala dosa/potato filled semi-fermented pancake) and retired at the Jaipur Inn.

A wedding party, the grooms on a white horses (DFH 2011)

Dancers at the wedding party. Most probably the 'lady' is a hijra
(eunuch/hemaphrodite) who usually gate-crash weddings, etc. (DFH 2011)

Key to Jaipur Inn rooms. Believe me, the number plate
is big and heavy!(CNB 2011)