My India: Sikandra, Agra, Fatehpur Sikri

Day Six: Saturday 5 November 2011

At 6.45 am we set out for Agra (in the state of Uttar Pradesh), in a car driven by Mr Rama aka Ram Singh (kindly arranged by DNA, thank you!). After a journey of nearly 5 hours, and just 12km/7m before Agra, we stopped at Sikandra to visit Akbar's Tomb. Akbar the Great, the 3rd Mughal emperor who ruled from 1556-1605, practised a policy of religious tolerance that brought the Hindus and Muslims together. He was a patron of literature and the arts even though he was illiterate. He founded Fatehpur Sikri and also designed his own final resting place. Akbar's mausoleum is 4 storeys high, the first 3 of sandstone, and the final (containing the false tomb) of white marble. The real tomb is in a crypt below. Around the gardens, Blackbuck deer roam freely.

One of the many, many colourful painted lorries along Indian
roads/highways. At their backs, the signs usually say 'Horn please',
'Blow Horn', so there is plenty of  'horn' noises along the way!
(CNB 2011)

Akbar's tomb building (CNB 2011)

Akbar's real tomb in the crypt below (DFH 2011)

Blackbuck deer roam the grounds of Akbar's Mausoleum
(CNB 2011)

The moment we reached Agra, Mr Rama's car broke down. But luck was on our side. A taxi driven by a Mr Salamat (Malay/Bahasa Indonesia pun intended) happened by and we changed transport to check-in at our hotel, the Crystal Retreat. Then Mr Salamat (& Mr Rama) safely delivered us to the Taj Mahal, the prime reason for my wanting to make this trip to India.

The first time seeing this very recognisable monument, this world wonder, this tribute to love, was magical, despite the huge crowds of local and foreign tourists (hey, that includes us!). Although it was getting dark, we patiently queued up (after our local guide Dinesh manouvered us into a gap in the throng of people, err... my nice way of saying he made us jump queue) to get into the tomb chamber. Two tombs actually, because the Emperor Shah Jahan who built the mausoleum for his wife Mumtaz Mahal was also buried here. The Taj Mahal, a grandiose garden tomb in white marble and of perfect proportions, also had beautiful details of delicate pietra dura inlays of semi-precious stones. It represents the apex of Mughal architecture.

In front of a Wonder of the World - the Taj Mahal
(Our guide Dinesh 2011)

The Taj Mahal from the mosque on its left side (DFH 2011)

The Taj Mahal from across the Jumna/Yamuna River
(Agra photo-wallah 2011)

Me in my Agra souvenir - a marble pietra dura frame
(CNB 2011)

On leaving the Taj Mahal in the dark, I nearly got my foot scrunched by a rickshaw, but its okay, because it was my fault trying to avoid a dog, and the rickshaw-wallah apologised profusely. After visiting the Agra Marble Shoppy (sic) where we saw how pietra dura was done, Mr Salamat walked us back to his taxi a distance away. We had biryani dinner at The Silk Route Restaurant in Fatehabad Road before retiring.

Rajasthani puppets and elephant mobiles in 'The Silk Route'
(CNB 2011)

DFH & RMN and biryani dinner at 'The Silk Route' (CNB 2011)

Day Seven: Sunday 6 November 2011

After our in-room breakfast, we left early for the Agra Fort, another magnificent monument of Mughal architecture and a World Heritage site. The fort was Akbar's first major building project, built between 1565-1575. Shah Jahan added to it in the next century.

Agra street grafitti (CNB 2011)

At the Akbari Darwaza/Amar Singh Gate entrance into the
Agra Fort (AF photo-wallah 2011)

The Darshani Gate of Agra Fort (Mr Islamuddin 2011)

Within the Agra Fort, among the important buildings are the Jahangiri Mahal, Diwan-i-Am, Diwan-i-Khas, Khas Mahal, the Golden Pavilions, Machchi Bhawan, Mina Masjid, Shah Jahan's Apartment, Musamman Burj, Pachisi Court, and Throne Terrace. In fact there was originally 500 buildings in the Fort, but now only very few remain.

Jahangiri Mahal, despite its name, was built by Akbar. It is the
earliest palace extant. (CNB 2011)

Jahangiri Mahal interior view detail (CNB 2011)

Posy posy pics at Agra Fort 

The 48 large pillars of the Diwan-i-Am or Public Audience Hall,
 built by Shah Jahan.  (CNB 2011)

The Throne Chamber of the Diwan-i-Am (CNB 2011)

The Machchi Bhawan or Fish Palace, so called because the Court
originally had marble tanks and fountains in which gold and silver fish
were kept for the Emperor's amusement (CNB 2011)

Namaste from the Machchi Bhawan, Agra Fort (DFH 2011)

On the Takt-e Jahangiri (black throne) with a local couple

The Khas Mahal (CNB 2011)

The Roshanara Pavillion, on the right, is one of the Golden Pavilions (the other
being the Jahanara). Both were built for the daughters of Shah Jahan (CNB 2011)

Nagina Masjid or the Women's Mosque where only the Emperor
and selected ladies of the Royal Court prayed in (CNB 2011)

The balcony of the octagonal chamber at the Musamman Burj from which the imprisoned
Shah Jahan used to gaze at the Taj Mahal across the River Jumna/Yamuna. He died here in the
presence of his daughter Jahanara and a few other royal ladies (CNB 2011)

Fountain inside the Musamman Burj (CNB 2011)

At the Anguri Bagh/Grape Garden in Agra Fort (2011)

 
We went for lunch (biryani gosht & chai masala) at the Indiana Restaurant. At the entrance we were greeted by a Rajasthani musician and young male dancer. He invited us to dance with him and we obliged (being the good sports that we are, ahem!). Later we shopped at a store nearby that sold everything from clothes and jewellery to miniature paintings, of which I bought a pair, of Shah Jahan and Mumtaz Mahal.

Trying our hands/feet at the Rajasthan dance (Mr Salamat 2011)

After lunch we went on to Fatehpur Sikri, Akbar's imperial capital for 16 years before it was abandoned due to the water running out (or more likely for strategic reasons). This 'ghost city' is 37km west of Agra. The imperial palace complex has 15 important buildings including the Diwan-i-Am, Diwan-i-Khas, Panch Mahal, Turkish Sultana's pavilion, Maryam's House, Jodh Bai's Palace, Nagina Masjid, etc.

In the auto-rickshaw to Fatehpur Sikri site (Mr Rama 2011)

Diwan-i-Khas, Fatehpur Sikri (2011)

Carved pillar inside the Diwan-i-Khas, FS (2011)

Panch Mahal in the background (2011)

With friendly locals at Fatehpur Sikri (Mr Dinesh 2011)

Leaving the imperial complex, we visited the Jama Masjid, where the Chishti Tomb of Sheikh Salim is located. The Chishtis were a sub-sect of the Sufis, and greatly revered saints include Sheikh Salim of Fatehpur Sikri. Devotees seeking his blessings have traditionally tied threads to the jalis of his dargah. We were invited to do so, but politely declined because this practise is not the norm outside of India and some Middle East countries. In the very short distance between the imperial complex and the Jama Masjid, there were many very persuasive trinket sellers, so we end up buying bangles, etc. We also noticed the many goats to be sacrificed for tomorrow's Aidil Adha, some adorned with henna and beads!

A sacrificial goat, all prettied up (DFH 2011)

The Badshahi Darwaza/Gate of the Jama Masjid
at Fatehpur Sikri (2011)

The white marble Chishti tomb building (Guide 2011)

While we were at Fatehpur Sikri, Mr Rama's car was fixed so we said shukriya (thank you) & namaste (goodbye) to Mr Salamat and continued our journey of the Indian golden triangle to Jaipur, in the state of Rajasthan. Along the way we saw a few wedding parties, so it must have been an auspicious day for marriages. It was foggy, but we could still make out the farms, small towns, and beasts of burden (donkeys, camels, horses, even bullock carts and tractors) on our route. We reached Jaipur at night, had dinner (I had masala dosa/potato filled semi-fermented pancake) and retired at the Jaipur Inn.

A wedding party, the grooms on a white horses (DFH 2011)

Dancers at the wedding party. Most probably the 'lady' is a hijra
(eunuch/hemaphrodite) who usually gate-crash weddings, etc. (DFH 2011)

Key to Jaipur Inn rooms. Believe me, the number plate
is big and heavy!(CNB 2011)

My India: Old Delhi

Day Four: Thursday 3 November 2011

In the morning, after a puri and dal curry breakfast made by Babu, we visited the Lal Qila/Red Fort (or Delhi Fort). 'The Red Fort (in Delhi) is one of the most magnificent fort-palaces in India. Declared as a World Heritage Site in 2007, it served as the citadel of Shahjahanabad - the capital of the Mughal emperor, Shah Jahan (who moved his capital from Agra in 1638). It derives its name from the massive red sandstone wall.' - Archeological Survey of India.

In the present day, every 15th August, the Prime Minister of India unfurls the national flag from its ramparts.

RMN, DFH & I in front of the imposing Red Fort (Mr Amar 2011)

The Red Fort main entrance at Lahori Gate
(CNB 2011)

Immediately at the entrance of the Fort via Lahori Gate, one is greeted by a covered bazaar, the first of its kind to be built in India in the 17th century. This arcade was built to serve as the main market place for the women of the court then. Now Chhatta Chowk or Meena Bazaar serves the tourists with an array of handicrafts, etc. from all over the country.

The Chhatta Chowk or covered bazaar at the entrance of the
Red Fort (CNB 2011)

Shops at the Chhatta Chowk sell everything that tourists,
me included, would buy (DFH 2011)

So... I bought these bangles for 150 rupees, and some strings
of crystal beads (CNB 2011)

Within the Red Fort are 44 components of the Mughal period, the rest, intrusive British Army barracks built during the British rule and quite ruining the original Hayat-Bakhsh Garden. Including the above Chhatta Chowk, notable Mughal period buildings include the Naubat Khana, Diwan-i-Am, Asad Burj (the Lion Tower), Mumtaz Mahal, Rang Mahal, Khas Mahal, Diwan-i-Khas, Hammam (royal baths), Moti Masjid (Pearl Mosque), Sawan Pavilion, and Zafar Mahal.

The Naubat Khana or Drum House, where drums were played 5 times a day,
 that formed the formal entry to the forecourt of the Diwan-i-Am (CNB 2011)

Carved floral (daffodil?) designs at the Naubat Khana (CNB 2011)

At the Diwan-i-Am, where the Emperor meets his subjects.
This sandstone structure has a facade of 9 arches supported
on pillars (RMN 2011)

The multiple arches of the Diwan-i-Am (CNB 2011)

The marble canopy where the Emperor sat during proceedings at the Diwan-i-Am.
It is decorated in exquisite pietra dura (marble inlay), but you cannot really see it
well because it is covered in netting for conservation (CNB 2011)

On the left is the Moti Masjid and on the right, the Hammam
(CNB 2011)

The Palaces within the Fort were mainly of white marble, with beautiful floral motifs adorning the walls and pillars. The Diwan-i-Khas or Shah Mahal, 'if not the most beautiful, it is certainly the most highly ornamented of all Shahjahan's buildings' - James Fergusson. It was here that Shah Jahan sat on his Peacock Throne and had private audiences with his select ministers and noblemen of the highest rank. The Mumtaz Mahal which used to be the palace of Jahanara, daughter of Shah Jahan, is today the Archaeological Museum (since 1909). The Rang Mahal (literally Palace of Colour) 'was the largest apartment of the imperial seraglio' (harem). The Khas Mahal was the Emperor's private palace.

Pigeons flying over the Diwan-i-Khas or Shah Mahal.  (CNB 2011)

Exquisite detailing of the Diwan-i-Khas (CNB 2011)

Pietra dura (marble inlay) detail of a plant decoration at the
Diwan-i-Khas (CNB 2011)

Another flower decoration at the Diwan-i-Khas (CNB 2011)

Gilded ceiling of the Diwan-i-Khas (CNB 2011)

Marble screen with the scale of justice at the south end of
Khas Mahal (CNB 2011)

A beautiful screen at the KM (CNB 2011)

Note: After the above photo, my camera conked out so from now on with kind permission, I will be using pictures from DFH & RMN and those taken with my handphone camera.
Anyway for lunch we went to another Karim's Restaurant, this time in Nizamuddin West. For the very first time, we felt quite harrassed (by very, very persistant beggars with babes in arms) in the very crowded alleyways to get there and back to our transport. Although the Dargah Hazrat Nizamuddin (shrine of Sheikh Nizamuddin Aulia) was in the area, we did not have the guts to get to it. Another time, maybe. Dinner was our treat for DNA & DAW at Capri Italy, an Italian Restaurant of their choice, in Defence Colony A.

Lunch at Karim's Restaurant, Nizamuddin West (RMN 2011)

Dinner at Capri Italy (2011)

Day Five: Friday 4 November 2011

Jami-Masjid or Jama Masjid, 500m west of the Red Fort and the largest mosque in India, was our first itinerary of the day. To get there well before the Friday prayer crowd, we passed through Chandni Chowk (Moonlight Bazaar), once beautiful and 'renowned for its wide avenues, elegant caravanserais and fabulous Mughal gardens', but now a very chaotic traffic-choked thoroughfare with crumbling buildings and collapsing shop fronts.

This time at Jama Masjid, when a local guide Mr Wahid Ali offered his services, we hired him (after realising that yesterday we missed out so many interesting details at the Red Fort). We were glad we did, because without him we would not have been able to see the relics of the Prophet at the little museum there.

The Jama Masjid being readied for the Friday prayers (DFH 2011)

Pigeons in a corner of the Jama Masjid (DFH 2011)

The mosque museum keeper Syed Ehraz Ahmed showed us the Prophet's
relic - a strand of his beard (DFH 2011)

On the steps of a side entrance to Jama Masjid (DFH 2011)

Some tourists at the Jama Masjid have to don these colourful robes
(DFH 2011) 

After lunch at Saravan Bhavan in Janpath again, we visited another World Heritage site at Humayun's Tomb. Humayun was the second Mughal emperor who ruled from 1530 till 1539 when he was deposed by Sher Shah. But he was reinstated in 1555 and died soon after from a fall on the steps of his library at Purana Qila. His widow Haji/Bega Begum built his mausoleum in 1569.

Humayun's tomb/mausoleum (DFH 2011)

DFH & I at the Humayun's Tomb signage, frangipani in my hair.
Why? Why not? (RMN 2011)

At Humayun's Tomb, as with other historical monuments,
there were many school groups visiting (DFH 2011)

We had dinner at home with DNA before she left for Yangon, Myanmar. We really felt like 'the Arab & his camel' (if you know the story, you know what I mean).