Climbing Bukit Tengkorak, Semporna in the Rain

It rained a lot when we climbed up Bukit Tengkorak with our guide. Not at the beginning, but as we neared the top. So we had to take shelter for about two hours before the rain subsided and we could see clearly the volcanic crater there. This archaeological site is said to reveal "evidence of people travelling between ... Melanesia (near Papua New Guinea) and Sabah, Borneo 3,000 years ago... Archaeologists believe that long-distance sea trade and migration between Southeast Asia and the Pacific left behind what is known as the Lapita culture of pottery, tools and ornaments.It was one of the longest trade routes in the world during the Neolithic period."

A pose before our climb (CNB 2012)

Information board about the site (CNB 2012)

A very recognisable pottery shard (CNB 2012)

A slimy worm slithers across the prehistoric pottery shards
of 3000 years ago (CNB 2012) 

It was a steep climb up the wooden stairs/walkway and rather slippery in places. We met three men coming down and one of them had slipped and scratched his hands and legs badly. Despite the fact that we were extra careful, I did slip, but not too badly, and A slipped more and had some scratches and a bruise.

Vegetation up close and the far horizon (CNB 2012)

Hill flora - the Begonia (CNB 2012)

A photo pause before continuing uphill (CNB 2012)

A spiny/feathery resident of Bukit Tengkorak (CNB 2011)

When the rain fell relentlessly, our guide Ben called for another guide (Edmundo) to come 'rescue' us with umbrellas. So after some pictures of the crater area during a break in the rainfall, we came down Bukit Tengkorak with two guides! (By the way, we did notice that our guide left a peace offering to the 'spirits' of Bukit Tengkorak.)

In the heavy rain, the horizon has disappeared (CNB 2012)

The crater area where the rocks are volcanic and the
vegetation, long grass (CNB 2012)

Another view of the above area (CNB 2012)

An excavation site on the hill (CNB 2012)

Our guides Edmundo and Ben (CNB 2012)

19 April 2012

Mataking Island, Semporna

It took more than an hour by speedboat from the Semporna jetty to get to Mataking (mainly because our boat developed engine trouble a few times on the way, in the middle of this wide expanse of water, and was a heart stopping experience because I can't swim, need I say more?)

Our boat to Mataking arrives (CNB 2012)

All aboard for the boat trip to Mataking (2012)

Some islands of the Tun Sakaran Marine Park (CNB 2012)

When we finally got there, the journey was most definitely worth it. The Reef Dive Resort there provided us a  reasonable buffet lunch, but it was the beautiful white beach and turquoise blue waters that draw the oohs and the aahs.

The offspring island of Mataking Kecil is seen on the
the left/centre (CNB 2012)

An island welcome - Mataking style (CNB 2012)

Posing by the jetty to the Reef Dive Resort, Mataking (2012)

Colourful fish seen around the jetty area (CNB 2012)

Diamonds in the sky sea (CNB 2012)

Mataking is in fact two islands. During low tide one can cross the long stretch of a sand bar to the uninhabited offspring island, Mataking Kecil. A unique feature of Mataking is the 'Shipwreck Post' (underwater post office in a sunken shipwreck), where one can post letters to anywhere in the world. I guess divers are the lucky people here because they can get really close to the clown fish, turtles, barracuda, and other interesting denizens of the sea, in the waters around the island. It was a 'lightning' (read 'too short') visit to Mataking but still, it is another island that I have visited in the Semporna group. Kapalai, check; Mabul, check; Mataking, check!

The long sandbar leading to Mataking Kecil (CNB 2012)

Island palm flora (CNB 2012)

On our way back, we are 'accompanied' by two other boats.
In case there's engine trouble again? (CNB 2012)

18 May 2012

My Sabah: Semporna revisited

We were in Semporna last month for the 19th Annual Regatta Lepa to relive the experience of the festive carnival atmosphere there (we were there for the first time last year, do check out my previous Sabah blog entries). Again, we took the opportunity to explore this coastal town and its attractions both old and new. We made a brief visit to one of the 40 islands off Semporna - Mataking. Our Sabah trip this time concluded with a shopping stopover in Tawau before flying home.

Semporna was gaily decorated with the Bajau sambulayang flags beginning on the road from Tawau airport into the town. In the town area, there were numerous posters and buntings advertising the Regatta. The carnival atmosphere was definitely contributed by the increased population milling around in the area, attracted to the numerous programmes planned and stalls set up to celebrate the annual Regatta.

The sambulayang welcomes all visitors to Semporna for the
19th Regatta Lepa (CNB 2012)

Banners at the town roundabout (CNB 2012)

The opening of the new public library was officiated during the festive period between 17-22 April 2012.

The new public library & its sambulayang (CNB 2012)

The appropriately named Menara U.S.I.A. near the town roundabout is reputedly the oldest building in Semporna.

Another new addition to Semporna's attractions is the Tun Sakaran Dandai Museum. The Museum exhibits include the traditional lepa, placed just outside the building. The life of the Tun as an illustrious son of Semporna is recounted in the picture exhibits.

Prow of the lepa on exhibit at the Tun Sakaran Dandai
Museum (CNB 2012)

Tun Sakaran in 1954

Some of the 64,000 Bajau of Semporna who live in the water villages seem to lead a very idyllic laid-back life. With the sea under one's verandah, how can life be anything else? Heck, the sea is under one's whole abode here in Semporna.

Water villagers on their 'verandah' (CNB 2012)

Laundry day in the water village (CNB 2012)

'Blonde' Bajaus at Semporna Kampung Air (CNB 2012)

The main jetty area (CNB 2012)

Another view of the main jetty area (CNB 2012)

Nature tour guides Edmundo, John and Ben pose
on the jetty walkway (CNB 2012)

Back on dry land, the Semporna Mosque with its yellow domes, is the pride of the town.

Semporna Mosque (CNB 2012)

So also the bustling market. And what is a town without a market? It is the pulse, and a very lively, colourful one. This time we had our lunch at Gerai 13 in the market area. We were in good company - with our three guides (Ben and Edmundo are joined by John) and the van driver from the 'Borneo Semporna Proboscis River Cruise' (more about this in another blog entry later).

Lunch at Gerai 13, Semporna Market. John 'Kaling' Nair is at
 left. Remember him from the 'Colours of Malaysia' travel
series? (AB 2012) 

Our meal mainly came from this grilled fish stall (CNB 2012)

We also had kilau - raw fish with mango/pineapple/onion
shreds. Ben says it is called inava in Kota Kinabalu (CNB 2012)

A Bajau staple, Pyutu - tapioca 'rice' or 'sausage'

The wet fish market always beckons and the denizens of the sea on offer there are always fascinating. This time I spotted many puffer/blow fish, and even box fish, that I remember seeing for the first time at the Gelugor Aquarium in Penang during my much younger days. But this time they were destined for the frying pan? Who eats box fish, I wonder. By the way, I was too much of a coward to try eating the puffer fish. I guess maybe, I am afraid of excruciating death?!

Puffer fish for the brave (CNB 2012)

The box fish (CNB 2012)

Fish so colourful (CNB 2012)

Tehe tehe/sea urchin with seaweeds, latok/sea grapes
(my favourite), etc. in the back. Latok is only RM1 per
plateful - incredibly cheap! Semporna seaweed farming
is doing well. (CNB 2012)

Then there is the dry fish market - for dried fish, of course, and other seafood. We saw trays of sea cucumber, scallops, and tiny stingrays drying in the sun along the walkways.

Bridge to the dry fish market (CNB 2012)

Was the sambulayang inspired by dried octopus? (CNB 2012)

More dried denizens of the sea (CNB 2012)

Cowrie shells for sale  - which begs the question; do we buy?
(CNB 2012)

Then there is the rest of the market area dedicated to vegetables and fruits, foods of various kinds, household (and aquatic) supplies, even 'recon' shoes!

Vegetables all cut and ready to cook (CNB 2012)

Snacks of all kinds and colour (CNB 2012)

A tries out some wood goggles. On the left are bottles of
engine oils for boats (CNB 2012)

I pose by some 'recon' shoes (CNB 2012)

I love markets and never pass up the chance to visit one wherever I go. This time in Semporna, apart from visiting an island (Mataking), we went up the Bukit Tengkorak (Hill of Skulls) and down the Sungai Buaya (Crocodile River) to experience its natural wonders.

17-22 April 2012