My Brunei

Water taxis skimming over the waters with the Kampung Ayer as
backdrop - the scene most representative of Brunei (CNB 2003) 

With my daughters B & A, I went to Brunei Darussalam for the first time in May 2003 during the SARS scare. We remember so many cancelled flights at both the KLIA and Bandar Seri Begawan (BSB) Airport. But we pressed on to get to Brunei because it was already planned, and we wanted an overseas holiday together. We wanted to travel to have memories to share and stories to tell. (The Conference I was supposed to attend at the same time was postponed to October because of the SARS epidemic).

We had a great time in BSB, where we stayed at the Hotel Brunei. We walked all around town and stopped to admire and take photos of the various landmarks in Bandar (as BSB is affectionately by the locals); the majestic Sultan Omar Ali Saifuddin Mosque, Yayasan Sultan Haji Hassanal Bolkiah (SHHB) Complex, the regal Lapau Di Raja adjoining the Dewn Majlis (Parliament), Royal Regalia building, and Istana Nurul Iman. We visited the Brunei Museum, and the Malay Technology Museum. But the most memorable was the Kampung Ayer (Water Village), of course.

The 'Royal Barge'  & Sir Omar Ali Saifuddin Mosque (CNB 2003)

The girls and I had a walkabout at the Kampung Ayer, where we were greeted warmly by the locals, especially the children. We also had a very exciting time on a very speedy and efficient water taxi on a tour of  the Kampung's labyrinthine waterways of the Brunei River. We knew that there are now more than 30,000 inhabitants in this more than 600 year old settlement. It is amazingly served by floating schools, petrol stations, fire station, in fact all facilities a town would need! We were on the river for about an hour, the girls excitedly screaming (but I was pucat lesi and white knuckled) when the boat seemed to fly over the water. Then at dusk, the magic happened. The whole area turned golden by the rays of the setting sun. It was the most beautiful sight, taking our breaths away. But dang!  The camera's battery had conked out on me, so you will just have to take my word for it. Or you can check with the girls as well, though they were not into sunsets then.

B, A & girls from the floating school behind them (CNB 2003)

B on the wooden walkway into the Kg Ayer settlement (CNB 2003)

Water taxis awaiting customers (CNB 2003)

We also acquired the services of a local tour guide to go beyond Bandar. We visited the fantastic building to commemorate the 25th anniversary of the Sultan's reign, the Jame' Asr Hassanil Bolkiah Mosque or Kiarong Mosque, a few kilometres from Bandar.

With Nur at the Masjid Jame' Asr (BB 2003)

On the steps of the Jame' Asr Mosque (Nur 2003)

We went to Jerudong, to the very posh Empire Hotel & Country Club, and the Jerudong Park for its musical/dancing fountains. Despite the beautiful display of the fountains and the numerous fun rides in the park, we seemed to be the only people there that particular night. I guess the Bruneians have all 'been there, done that'.

At the Empire Hotel & Country Club (Nur 2003)

The Jerudong Park (CNB 2003)

The only 'ride' open in Jerudong Park when we were there (Nur 2003)

We also went to Belait and Seria, to see the 'nodding donkeys', the Billionth Barrel Monument and the OGDC (Oil & Gas Discovery Centre). You have to see these to appreciate why Brunei is a very oil rich kingdom.

The Billionth Barrel Monument (CNB 2003)

Do you see 2 or 4 'nodding donkeys'? (Nur 2003)

A tea break at the OGDC, Seria (2003)

Food in Brunei does not differ much from ours - there is the staple rice, satay, noodles, roasted chicken, grilled fish, etc. But then there is ambuyat, the traditional Bruneian dish made of sago and accompanied by various condiments. We tried this dish in a restaurant in Kiulap, and found it interesting enough for our palate (for some people its 'edible glue'). It is also eaten with a special kind of bamboo chopsticks. As a souvenir of Brunei, we bought some of these unique chopsticks at the Tamu (Market) Kianggeh, situated on the banks of the Kianggeh River. We also found other good bargains at the Tamu - handicraft including tudung dulang (food covers), and local herbs and delicacies (e.g. kueh cincin, jala, etc.)

Enjoying our ambuyat lunch at a restaurant in Kiulap (2003)

With Hajjah Rapeah, her husband and daughter at the
Tamu Kianggeh (AB 2003)

During this first visit I fell sick on the second day, and we were most anxious that I had inadvertantly brought in SARS into this kingdom! I would have made medical history in Brunei if I had, but then again I just had the ordinary flu and was up and about the next day! In all, the girls and I did have a great time and we did indeed  make a lot of memories and have this story to tell.

Saying farewell to Nur at the Airport. Note the many cancelled
 flights (2003)

I visited Brunei another three times after this. I returned in October 2003 to attend CONSAL (Congress of Southeast Asian Librarians) at the International Convention Centre at Berakas. Then twice again in 2006 to attend the Meetings of the AUNILO (ASEAN Universities Network Inter-Library Online) at the University of Brunei Darussalam. During these visits, there was not much sightseeing time, but I did visit the night market and new mall at Gadong, revisited the historic Kampung Ayer and did some (not much) bargain shopping at the Yayasan for imported cloths (read Korean silks). Our Bruneian hosts were very good to us and showed us great hospitality always.

With CONSAL 'brains': Ch'ng, Khoo, Ho, Zawiah & Rama (2003)

At the AUNILO Meeting in Universiti Brunei Darussalam (2006)

May & October 2003, September 2006