My Thailand: Bangkok & Beyond

The first time I had my passport stamped on my birthday was on this fifth trip to Thailand in March 2003. So I celebrated (very quietly) on the train to Bangkok. It was nice to travel with this group of seven girls (never mind our ages, we are still girls, okay?), led by our good friend Orasa.

Our group of girls arrive at Samsen Station (one stop before
Bangkok) on the overnight train (2003)

In Bangkok we checked in at the Eastin Hotel, near Pratunam, then did a bit of exploring in this 'city of angels'. On our trip on the Menam Chao Phraya, in a long-tailed boat, we observed the Thais living along the river banks, and fed the fish at Wat Klang Kret, before stopping at a house cum factory that made delectable Thai desserts - colourful and yummy.

Dessert stop along a klong (CNB 2003)

Then we stopped again, this time at Ko Kret, a little island in the middle of the Chao Phraya River, that had a pottery-making Mon village. There I bought a beautiful pencil holder that still stands on my writing desk today.

Ko Kret Pottery (2003)

Orasa took us to visit her family and we had dinner together at a beautiful restaurant, where the food was really good. We also did some shopping in Pratunam after that. We left Bangkok the next morning by van and ventured North, to Uthai Thani and thence Nakhon Sawan, where we stayed at the Country Lake Lodge. Here we enjoyed learning how to make the somtam (Thai salad). That first night at the Lodge I was sleepless and fretful after hearing the sounds of the forest gecko lizards. I never knew they could make such loud sounds! (Think house gecko and multiply the decibels by 10?)

The afternoon market at Nakhon Sawan (CNB 2003)

We visited the Huay Ka Khaeng Wildlife Sanctuary, a World Heritage site and the biggest wildlife sanctuary in Southeast Asia. We followed the Khao Hin Daeng nature trail, where the guide showed us the various footprints of the wild animals that inhabit the place. Along the trail, he was bitten by a small snake that lurched out of nowhere. I was most scared of the wild boars, whose hoof prints we saw everywhere, but thank goodness, we never chanced upon any. I would not have been able to climb a tree to escape one, even though its the best thing to do! There were also some elephant dung and salt licks showing the tracks of many animals.

Graves of the park rangers who died protecting the park
against poachers (CNB 2003)

A pose before hitting the nature trail (2003)

At the area where temperate and tropical forests meet (2003)

Next we stopped by the Thap Sa Lau Reservoir, just to savour the scenery. In a field nearby I spotted a spirit house, a place for the phra phum (earth spirits) native to this site to live in. Usually I had seen spirit houses in front of houses and buildings, but apparently they are also to be found in rice fields and other sites.

The picturesque Thap Sa Lau Reservoir (2003)

A spirit house near the reservoir (CNB 2003)

We also visited the lost valley of Hub Pa Tub (also spelt Hub Pahtard), surrounded by mountain ranges, and dating back to the Jurassic age. To get there we had to traverse a very, very dark cavern and some steep steps.

At Jurassic Park, I mean Hub Pa Tub Valley (2003)

Back at the Lodge, some of us went swimming or canoeing in the ox-bow lake that surrounds the area. But two friends and I went walking around to admire the lakeside fauna and flora.

Canoeing in the ox-bow lake (CNB 2003)

With the owner and workers of the Country Lake Club (2003)

The next day we left the Lodge, and visited the Ta-Sung Temple, one of the biggest temple and meditation centre in Thailand. It has a silver crystal hall and golden shrine, and an interesting fish sanctuary to boot. Interesting because there was so much fish that they were literally on top of each other in the water.

With Orasa at the crystal and gold hall of Ta-Sung Temple (2003)

Meal time for the monks at the temple (CNB 2003)

At the fish sanctuary at Ta-Sung Temple (2003)

We went on to a Sakaekrang River cruise that offered a glimpse of the people living in their houseboats and working their fish farms. It was most tranquil over the river and we also had a very sumptuous seafood meal on board the boat.

'Rice barge' boats waiting for passengers (CNB 2003)

Beautiful floating homes on the river (CNB 2003)

More serene homes afloat (CNB 2003)

After the river cruise, we continued our journey by van to Kanchanaburi. By a long-tailed boat, we proceeded to the River Kwai Resotel, a resort of thatch-roofed Thai cottages, restaurant, and swimming pool. On arrival we had a nice traditional herbal massage session to take away the aches and pains of our road and river trip. At dinner that night we were entertained by very colourful and rigorous Mon tribal dances.

Orasa and I resting in our room at the Resotel (2003)

Mon tribal dance at the Resotel (CNB 2003)

The male Mon tribal dancers (CNB 2003)

The next morning, after a nice breakfast, and a thanaka 'make up' session, we visited a Mon village and school. Thanaka is a yellowish-white cosmetic paste made from the ground bark/root of some trees. Other than for 'cosmetic beauty' (beauty being in the eye of the beholder), it gives a cooling sensation and protection against the sun. It is most commonly used by the Burmese.

Having thanaka applied to my face (2003)
Recognise the boy? He multitasks as dancer and resort staff.

Smadia having her face made up with thanaka while Juita and I 'pose' (2003)

At a school for the Mon children (2003)

All the children have thanaka on their faces to keep cool (CNB 2003)

The children think they have a new teacher,
but it is only moi, a foreign visitor. (2003)

After the Mon village visit, we went on an elephant ride - a must do when in Thailand. The mahout was very much in control of the elephant we rode on, although many times it insisted on stopping and foraging the trees along the way.

Juita and I share an elephant (2003)

Then we went to see the World War II Memorial and the 8000 graves on beautifully manicured lawns. We also visited the Thailand-Burma Railway Centre, to learn more about the Death Railway that ran from Nong Pladuk in Thailand to Thanbuyuzayat in Burma. It was built by the Imperial Japanese Army, or rather their 16,000 prisoners of war (and 100,000 coolies) during the World War II. It is really a reminder of a very grim past.

At the Hell-fire pass, and the site of the original track of the Death Railway (2003)

The next day we transferred to the Floatel, or jungle raft accomodation on the Kwai Noi River. And then we went bamboo rafting along the beautiful river.

Our group at the Floatel (2003)

Rafting on the River Kwai Noi (2003)

Trying my hand at moving the raft along (2003)

A long-tailed boat pulling along a raft (hey, where's the fun in that?) (CNB 2003)

The next day we left for our train ride on the Death Railway. We took about an hour's journey from Nam Tok to the Tha Kilen stations, passing by the dangerous bend on the viaduct bridge. I noticed many local tourists on the train with us. From Tha Kilen we got on to the van again and went on to the famous (infamous?) Bridge on the River Kwai, where we walked the historic bridge. It was a fitting end to our journey.

Stopping by a roadside stall for asam jawa treats on the way to Nam Tok station (2003)

A ride on the Death Railway train (2003)

Thai Railway guards going about their duties (CNB 2003)

Approaching the dangerous bend on the viaduct bridge (2003)

At the Bridge on the River Kwai (2003)

The Bridge on the River Kwai from below (2003)

We left Kanchanaburi by van to Hatyai from where we flew back to Pulau Pinang, after our most memorable seven-day sojourn in Thailand. Thank you Orasa, for arranging such a great trip for us.

March 2003