Sunday 29 April 2012

My Japan: Kyoto

We arrived in Kyoto in the evening and headed for our accommodation - the Oyado Ishicho Ryokan. We got to experience staying at a traditional inn and sleeping the traditional way - futon* on tatami. There was also the yukata to wear and the public bath to enjoy, though we never had the time (or inclination, really?) to do the latter.

Our futon all laid out for the night (CNB 2012)

Pretty in-room tea set (CNB 2012)

Beautiful ikebana style flower arrangement in the dining room
(CNB 2012)

About Kyoto; it was Japan's capital for more than 1,000 years and became the repository of the country's art, culture, religion and thought. Kyoto now has more than 2,000 Buddhist temples and Shinto shrines. With so many historic monuments/world heritage sites (17) to savour, we could only manage three during our stay in Kyoto.

The Kyoto main station (CNB 2012)

The librarian in me took this picture (CNB 2012)

On the first morning after our (buffet) breakfast at the Ryokan we took a taxi to the Kyoto-eki to meet up again with Kumiko and Yukari, another ex-classmate of SH.

My Ryokan breakfast (CNB 2012)

The colourful breakfast buffet spread (CNB 2012)

Friendly kitchen staff at the Ryokan (CNB 2012)

Together we took a bus to the Heian-Jingu (a Shinto shrine). A 24-metre high (80 ft) torii leads to the vermilion-coloured gate of this shrine. The shrine, dedicated to Kyoto's first and last emperors, was built in 1895 when Chinese influence was at its height. A wide white-pebbled courtyard leads to the Daigoku-den  (main hall).

Torii leading to the Heian-jingu (CNB 2012)

The gate into the Heian-jingu (CNB 2012)

The purification well in the white pebbled courtyard (CNB 2012)

Then we walked along the canal (though we did not have time to go along the 'Path of Philosophy') and Biwa Lake, and past the old railway tracks to our destination for lunch.


A boat passes along the canal bordered on both sides by
sakura trees in full bloom (CNB 2012)

Modern meets traditional - two bridal couples along the old
railway tracks of Kyoto (CNB 2012)

Our pre-booked lunch was at a very famous traditional Japanese Restaurant, at the Ryokan Yachiyo. Thank you Kumiko for enabling us to experience a wonderful meal in such beautiful surroundings. The little garden there had a serene koi pond as well.

AH and I and our food at Yachiyo (KT 2012)

The restaurant with a view of the garden (CNB 2012)

Koi in the pond ... tranquility (CNB 2012)

After the very good meal, we walked to the Nanzen-ji, located at the base of Kyoto's forested Higashimaya mountains. It began as a 13th century retirement villa of Emperor Kameyama and was later converted into a Zen Buddhist temple. But somehow I missed seeing the famous Hojo Rock Garden there. I read later that the Nanzen-ji Sanmon (main gate) of this temple features in Kabuki theatre.

Nanzen-ji sanmon (main gate) roof detail (CNB 2012)

The Nanzen-ji sanmon (CNB 2012)

A young couple poses for my camera at the
Nanzen-ji (CNB 2012)

We then took taxis to Kiyomizu-dera, a Buddhist temple building I very much looked forward to seeing. Kiyomizu Temple, a contender for the new seven wonders of the world,  is known for its wide wooden verandah jutting out over a beautiful valley extending to a panoramic view of the city. First we had to negotiate the steps on a steep slope to get there. But it was a fun walk because there were shops/eateries all the way up.

Steps leading up to the Kiyomizu-dera (CNB 2012)

A traditional fan shop. Oops, no photography! (CNB 2012)

Three girls in kimono stop for a breather and a meal (CNB 2012)

The Temple was founded in 788 and dedicated to the 11-faced Kannon (God of Mercy). In the temple grounds, the Otowa-no-taki is the waterfall where visitors sip water from a spring said to have many health benefits.

Kiyomizu-dera overlooking Kyoto (CNB 2012)

Me at a (contender) wonder of the world (KT 2012)

The Otowa spring in the temple grounds (CNB 2012)

Yukari & Kumiko at the Kiyomizu-dera (CNB 2012)

We took taxis again to the city centre for a tea break before beginning our visit to the Nishiki Market for a look see. The Kyoto Nishiki Ichiba (market) is touted as 'the kitchen of Kyoto'. It is a narrow shopping street with some 126 shops/stalls selling traditional Japanese foods, ingredients and other novel items. Almost everything here is said to be locally produced or procured. Interestingly, this market started as far back as 1311.

An oyster bar at Nishiki (CNB 2012)

'Sushi' in a haberdashery shop (CNB 2012)

A shop selling chestnuts, etc. (CNB 2012)

From the Nishiki Market we later went to the Daimaru Depato (department store) to buy our dinner in the depato chika (i.e. its basement food hall).

We never got to go to Gion, Kyoto's famous geisha district. I read that the geisha in Kyoto are known as maiko and geiko because the word geisha in old Kyoto referred to male entertainers dressed as women (although in Tokyo and Osaka it came to mean women). Maiko debut at 16 and advance to geiko rank at about 21. My only brief encounter with maiko/geiko in Kyoto was just before we began our walk up to the Kiyomizu-dera.

A serendipitous encounter with two Kyoto maiko (CNB 2012)

Back at the ryokan, a group of students from the US had just checked-in and were excitedly posing in their yukata. I was mistaken for a 'local', and received Japanese greetings from them and their teacher. Ha ha, sorry I do not speak Japanese, unfortunately. I wish I do, though. (Learnt it in uni, but never mastered it.)

American students at the Ryokan (CNB 2012)

We thoroughly enjoyed our stay at the ryokan, albeit for two nights only. From Kyoto, it was on to Nagoya.
Sayonara, Kyoto...

Sayonara, we hope to return to Kyoto (CNB 2012)

* Futon is traditional Japanese bedding comprising a shikibuton (bottom mattress) and kakebuton (thick quilted bedcover).

3-12 April 2012

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