Melaka's Harmony Street

A mosque, a Chinese temple and an Indian temple just a few doors away from each other make Melaka's Jalan Tokong (Temple Street) truly a harmony street. All three buildings exhibit interesting facades and facets. During our previous visit in 2009, we rode in one of the colourful beca (trishaws) along this street and the trishaw-man kindly made stops for us to visit these houses of worship. But this time we walked around and were content with taking pictures from the outside.

Kampung Keling Mosque (1748) is in Sumatran-style with a three-tiered roof. The pagoda-like minaret is rather unusual, while in the prayer hall are Corinthian columns.

Cheng Hoon Teng temple (1645) is the oldest functioning Chinese temple in the country.

The Sri Poyyatha Indian Temple (1781) enshrines Vinayagar, the deity with an elephant head and the body of a man with four hands.

Apart from the houses of worship, Jalan Tokong also has other interesting buildings. The shophouses have pretty facades, and some exhibit unusual trades. One shop still makes little bound feet shoes following the original pattern. Did I mention shoes? Yes, and of course someone has to buy these shoes, even if they are only three inches big small. B did!

We also spotted this little wooden house offered for homestay, just opposite the Cheng Hoon Teng temple. Nice, but would you stay here? Surrounded by so much ... history.

Just off Jalan Tokong, near the end of Jalan Hang Kasturi, is the 15th century Achinese style Makam Hang Jebat (Hang Jebat Mausoleum). To many, Hang Jebat was the champion of justice who died tragically at the hands of his sworn brother, Hang Tuah in a duel of honour. RIP, our hero.

Hang Jebat Mausoleum (CNB 2013)

Melaka 2-5 November 2013

Jalan Hang Jebat aka Jonker Walk

Jalan Hang Jebat and an old bike (CNB 2013)

Jalan Hang Jebat aka Jonker Walk (previously Jonker Street) is in the heart of Melaka's China town. Its fame lies in the many antique and curio shops on both sides of the street. By day it is a lively enough place, but come Friday, Saturday and Sunday evenings, the street turns into a huge and even more lively 'pasar malam' or night market. Here you jostle along with other tourists, both local and foreign, looking for antiques or knick knacks to waste spend your money on.

One of the many antique shops in Jonker Street (CNB 2013)

Another antique shop (CNB 2013)

At this juncture of my pretty ordinary life, I am no longer collecting anything material (I hope), least of all antiques! So its more about looking for 'eats'.

Cincaluk (CNB 2013)

Just as well, Jalan Hang Jebat is also a 'food street'. You find many little cafes and restaurants, including some famous ones like the Geographer Cafe, Famosa chicken rice ball restaurant (the halal outlet is in Tesco Hypermart, Peringgit), Jonker 88 (which I dub 'Mao's Cafe', not for their well-known dessert of  'mao lagi' durian cendol, but for the many interesting pictures of Mao Tse Tung adorning a wall), etc.

We bought a bottle of cincaluk (Melaka's most iconic food appetiser made from udang geragau or krill) from a shop here. The very friendly shop-lady Teh, originally from Negri Sembilan is married to a local Baba. (Does this make her a Nyonya?) Anyway she speaks in good Malay, as all Baba Nyonyas do.

'Mao's Cafe' at 88 Jonker Street (CNB 2013)

The 75 year old Royal Press where letterpress printing still
thrives (CNB 2013)

Jonker Walk in the evening (CNB 2013)

We observed that Jalan Hang Jebat now has some 'quirky' landmarks like a Mamee Museum (complete with its Blue Monster) and a Taman Warisan Dunia (with the statue of our very own Mr. Melaka/Malaysia/Asia/ World). Though definitely not in this quirky category, a revisit to the mausoleum of Hang Kasturi seems a must for us. (Maybe what is quirky here is the fact that the English translation of the signage for this mausoleum is atrocious. The Thomb's (sic) of Hang Kasturi? The rest of it will make you cringe even more ... another case of bad machine translation?)

At Makam Hang Kasturi (CNB 2013)

Just off Jalan Hang Jebat/Jonker Street are some interesting shops on Jalan Hang Kasturi. Among them, about the only Malay eatery to be found, 'Aku dan Dia'. Here they serve the best kway teow goreng and other dishes. You can finish your meal with home-made buah melaka or ondeh-ondeh, made before your very eyes.

Simply delicious, melt in your mouth buah melaka (CNB 2013)

Another interesting shop in Jalan Hang Kasturi is the 'Red Handicrafts'. Its beautiful shop front never fails to prompt us to pose for pictures there when we pass by.

Red Handicrafts, off Jonker Street (CNB 2013)

Melaka 2-5 November 2013

Melaka River Cruise

The 45 minute Melaka River cruise is worth every ringgit spent. The river cuts across Melaka city on its way to the Straits of Melaka. All along the river, the sights are most interesting. Especially the murals (graffiti?) on the buildings, and the bridges we passed under. Also the old church of St Francis Xavier (1849), warehouses, villages and gardens on its banks. From the jetty opposite the Casa del Rio, the boat goes up to Kampung Morten and back. Remember the movie 'Entrapment', when the buildings were grotty? Well, the river has been widened, and though the water is still muddy but no longer murky, the buildings and embankments are clean with pretty potted plants as decor. You get to enjoy some of these sights below as you cruise the Melaka River.

A replica of the Melaka Sultanate water wheel (CNB 2013)

The riverside buildings

Another boatload of tourists cruise by (CNB 2013)

Hang Jebat, I think, adorns this building (CNB 2013)

Some more colourful backs of buildings (CNB 2013)

There are eight bridges over the Melaka River that we pass under during the cruise, each one quite different from the others.

One of the foot bridges across the Melaka River (CNB 2013)

The Chan Koon Cheng bridge with the St Francis Xavier
Church in the background (CNB 2013)

Kampung Morten, where the boat will later make a turnaround, is a very old Malay village. Although it would be nice to explore this kampung on foot, we have to reserve it for another time perhaps.

Approaching Kg Morten (CNB 2013)

Later in the evening, we returned to one of the riverine cafe restaurants to sample some of Melaka's cuisine.

Dining along the river (CNB 2013)

Melaka 2-5 November 2013

The Historic Heart of Melaka

Melaka's rich historic past has always been a fascinating story. No matter how many times we visit Melaka, we never fail to feel the historic ambience all around. I think we all know how the Malacca Sultanate (1400-1511) started with Parameswara (Sultan Iskandar Shah) founding it at the spot where a white mouse deer, on being cornered by his hunting dogs turned around and 'barked' at the dogs, chasing them away. The old Sultanate Palace/Istana of the Sultan, thought to be on a hill (St Paul's) now has a replica built to reflect Melaka's glorious past, at the foot of the same hill.
(Pic Istana)

Detail  on Porta de Santiago (CNB 2013)

The Portuguese led by Alfonso de Albuquerque came in 1511 and the Melaka Sultanate fell. Sultan Mahmud Shah went on to found the Johor Sultanate from Kota Tinggi. The fort A 'Famosa built by the Portuguese and taken over by the Dutch who invaded Melaka in 1641, was destroyed by the English in 1806 except for the Porta de Santiago (gate), saved by Stamford Raffles, who was visiting at the time. It is among the the oldest surviving European architectural remains in Asia.

At the iconic Porta de Santiago (BB 2013)

A recent discovery while excavating at the site to build the modern Taming Sari Tower is of the Middelsburgh Bastion, a structure part of the fort built to safeguard the Malacca River. This is probably the second most important watch tower after the Santiago Bastion.

The clock tower fronting the Stadthuys (CNB)

The Dutch occupation of Malacca (1641 - 1825) was the longest period the state was under foreign control. During this time, the importance of Malacca declined due to the Dutch preference of Batavia (Jakarta). In the 17th century Malacca ceased to be an important port and the Johor Sultanate became the dominant local power due to its alliance with the Dutch.

During the 183 years of their rule, the Dutch left behind many structures, the most outstanding being those in the Dutch Square - the salmon red/pink buildings of the Stadthuys, the clock tower, the Christ Church (1753), etc. The Stadthuys, housing the town hall and governor's residence then, was built between 1641 and 1660. This Dutch colonial structure now houses five museums. Unfortunately at this time, renovations are taking place, so the building is closed. Still, the other buildings in the complex make for great snapshots.

Interestingly, there seem to be many Dutch graves, especially in the ruins of St Paul's Church on the hill of the same name. On reading their epitaphs on the grave stones, they mostly died young (relatively).

The St Paul's Church ruins (CNB 2013)

Dutch grave stone detail (CNB 2013)

2-5 November 2013

Peranakan Nostalgia at Jalan Tun Tan Cheng Lock

While in Melaka, one can't help but be very aware of Peranakan (Straits born Chinese) culture, especially when in its Chinatown area. The very narrow Jalan Tun Tan Cheng Lock, (formerly known as Heeren Street from the Dutch colonial period), was the millionaire's row for Melaka's Chinese merchants during colonial times.

Walking from our hotel, a mere stone's throw away is Heeren House, at the corner of Lorong Hang Jebat and the entrance to Jalan TTCL.  This guest house by the Melaka River used to be a warehouse, a coffee shop and a family home.

Heeren House by the Melaka River (CNB 2013)

Architectural detail of a phoenix and peonies adorning a
building (CNB 2013)

Along the street there are many art and craft shops and galleries in what used to be traditional shophouses. Some of the shop fronts now exhibit pretty container gardens and are beautifully decorated, both outside and inside. We also noted that there are buildings undergoing conservation/restoration. We stopped by a newly opened shop exhibiting colourful embroidered Nyonya kebaya, and before you know it, B had bought herself a kebaya & sarung set. Very appropriate souvenir of Melaka!

The container garden of the Artist Gallery (CNB 2013)

Pretty kebayas in a shop (CNB 2012)

A bright blue shop, 'Colour Beads', attracted our attention from afar and inside we discovered a treasure trove of  beaded shoes, a skilled artisan making them at the back of the shop. The shoes are hand made from A to Z, the minuscule beads hand sewn to make pretty floral patterns (for the old style shoes) and geometric ones (for the new style shoes). At around RM300, you can wear art on your feet! Who needs Louboutins, eh?

B in front of the bright blue Colour Beads shop (CNB 2013)

BNHC window detail

The next day we returned to Jalan TTCL for a 45 minute guided tour at the Baba Nyonya Heritage Centre, which proved most interesting for the hybrid culture of the Baba Nyonya or Peranakan (assimilated/Straits born Chinese). Shirley our guide, explained how a millionaire Peranakan household operated in their hey day during colonial times. The Peranakans are descendants of the first Chinese men who came to Malaya and married local women. In fact the place of honour at the ancestral worship alter of this particular house is of a Bugis Malay woman.

The furnishing in the house is rich and elegant. The wood furniture have mother-of-pearl inlay, there are intricate carvings on lacquer screens, delicately embroidered wall hangings and chandeliers and mirrors from Europe.

No photography is allowed in the house and Shirley our guide is a no-nonsense person whom we would not cross swords with. At the end of the tour we gave her an 'excellent' review for a job well done, and then persuaded her to pose for pictures - outside the house, of course.

B and Shirley (CNB 2013)

2-5 November 2013

A Melaka Getaway

Melaka's salmon pink/red buildings (CNB 2013)

The recent public holidays of Deepavali (02/11/13) and Maal Hijrah (05/11/13) afforded some getaway time, so B and I made a road trip down to the historic city of Melaka, just a two-hour drive away from KL/Shah Alam. For nearly four days there, it was sheer indulgence in history and culture (read: food, art, architecture, and more ... food).

Getting off the North-South highway at Ayer Keroh was the start of a long and slow drive into Melaka City. Our first stop was at the Bayview Hotel in Jalan Bendahara, where we had a room on the unlucky 13th floor! This 25 year old hotel needs refurbishing and they seem to be getting on with it, starting with their air conditioning system. I think they should look at their lifts as well, because we had a minor scare in one. But I will spare you the details.

Anyway that did not stop us from stuffing ourselves with seafood during dinner at a restaurant nearby. It was Sri Lankan crabs and pomfret fish followed by street-side durian for dessert!

B and street-side durian dessert - delish! (CNB 2013)

The next morning we walked next door to the oldest functioning Catholic Church (built in 1710), the St Peter's, for a look-see. It being Sunday, there was a service being held then. So we left after a few snapshots of the church's facade. After checking out, we joined the traffic jam into the happening historic heart of Melaka city centre. For two nights we will 'zonk out' at the Hangout@Jonker (hotel) on Lorong Hang Jebat.

St Peter's Church (CNB 2013)

The iconic clogs of Jonker Street (CNB 2013)

From here, in muted sunshine and afternoon rains, we did all our 'absorption' of the history and culture of Melaka around us - its past, architecture, art and crafts, foods, people and current attractions. We covered the main streets of Jalan Hang Jebat (aka Jonker Street), Jalan Tokong and Jalan Tun Tan Cheng Lock. Of course we did the Melaka River cruise and rode on the 'eyesore' Taming Sari Tower for great all round views of this Unesco World Heritage site (since 07/07/08). Revisiting the iconic A'Famosa (appropriately 'The Famous' in Portuguese), Stadthuys and St Paul's Hill seems a must-do whenever in Melaka. (I will write more detailed postings later).

The Porta de Santiago of the A'Famosa fortress (CNB 2013)

After we checked out from Hangout, we had to really hang out at the Mediterranean-inspired 'home by the river', the Casa Del Rio, because it was pouring again. The heavy rains and the relative cold make for ravenous appetites, so despite having had lunch earlier, what better fare than 'sinful' gourmet pizzas named according to the 'seven sins'. Of course we chose 'Gluttony' (what else?) washed down with mocktails of Ginger Tom and Funky Monkey. Then the rains subsided, and we left for home, sweet home.

Hangout@Jonker breakfast; when in Melaka,
wear kebaya, eat roti kaya.  (BB 2013)

Gluttony at the River Cafe, Casa del Rio Melaka (CNB 2013)

2-5 November 2013

Pengembara

Aku adalah pengembara
     yang tak berpeta
langkah-langkahku kerap serakah
sehingga aku tak terhitung
musim-musim hijrah
merakam setiap sumbangnya langkahku
yang kian lesu.

Aku adalah pengembara
    yang alpa
rakus dan angkuh
seakan-akan melupakan
ikrar yang pernah ku baitkan
   pada-Mu.

Oh! Betapakah hinanya langkah-langkah ini...

P. H. MUHAMMAD ABD. AZIZ
Awal Hijrah 1407

Dari Suara Di Ambang Senja: Antologi Puisi [P. H. Muhammad Abd. Aziz]
Bandar Seri Begawan, Dewan Bahasa dan Pustaka, 1992.
Ex Libris CNB 1354