Friday 8 November 2013

The Historic Heart of Melaka

Melaka's rich historic past has always been a fascinating story. No matter how many times we visit Melaka, we never fail to feel the historic ambience all around. I think we all know how the Malacca Sultanate (1400-1511) started with Parameswara (Sultan Iskandar Shah) founding it at the spot where a white mouse deer, on being cornered by his hunting dogs turned around and 'barked' at the dogs, chasing them away. The old Sultanate Palace/Istana of the Sultan, thought to be on a hill (St Paul's) now has a replica built to reflect Melaka's glorious past, at the foot of the same hill.
(Pic Istana)

Detail  on Porta de Santiago (CNB 2013)

The Portuguese led by Alfonso de Albuquerque came in 1511 and the Melaka Sultanate fell. Sultan Mahmud Shah went on to found the Johor Sultanate from Kota Tinggi. The fort A 'Famosa built by the Portuguese and taken over by the Dutch who invaded Melaka in 1641, was destroyed by the English in 1806 except for the Porta de Santiago (gate), saved by Stamford Raffles, who was visiting at the time. It is among the the oldest surviving European architectural remains in Asia.

At the iconic Porta de Santiago (BB 2013)

A recent discovery while excavating at the site to build the modern Taming Sari Tower is of the Middelsburgh Bastion, a structure part of the fort built to safeguard the Malacca River. This is probably the second most important watch tower after the Santiago Bastion.



The clock tower fronting the Stadthuys (CNB)
The Dutch occupation of Malacca (1641 - 1825) was the longest period the state was under foreign control. During this time, the importance of Malacca declined due to the Dutch preference of Batavia (Jakarta). In the 17th century Malacca ceased to be an important port and the Johor Sultanate became the dominant local power due to its alliance with the Dutch.

During the 183 years of their rule, the Dutch left behind many structures, the most outstanding being those in the Dutch Square - the salmon red/pink buildings of the Stadthuys, the clock tower, the Christ Church (1753), etc. The Stadthuys, housing the town hall and governor's residence then, was built between 1641 and 1660. This Dutch colonial structure now houses five museums. Unfortunately at this time, renovations are taking place, so the building is closed. Still, the other buildings in the complex make for great snapshots.

Interestingly, there seem to be many Dutch graves, especially in the ruins of St Paul's Church on the hill of the same name. On reading their epitaphs on the grave stones, they mostly died young (relatively).

The St Paul's Church ruins (CNB 2013)

Dutch grave stone detail (CNB 2013)

2-5 November 2013

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