My India: Old Delhi

Day Four: Thursday 3 November 2011

In the morning, after a puri and dal curry breakfast made by Babu, we visited the Lal Qila/Red Fort (or Delhi Fort). 'The Red Fort (in Delhi) is one of the most magnificent fort-palaces in India. Declared as a World Heritage Site in 2007, it served as the citadel of Shahjahanabad - the capital of the Mughal emperor, Shah Jahan (who moved his capital from Agra in 1638). It derives its name from the massive red sandstone wall.' - Archeological Survey of India.

In the present day, every 15th August, the Prime Minister of India unfurls the national flag from its ramparts.

RMN, DFH & I in front of the imposing Red Fort (Mr Amar 2011)

The Red Fort main entrance at Lahori Gate
(CNB 2011)

Immediately at the entrance of the Fort via Lahori Gate, one is greeted by a covered bazaar, the first of its kind to be built in India in the 17th century. This arcade was built to serve as the main market place for the women of the court then. Now Chhatta Chowk or Meena Bazaar serves the tourists with an array of handicrafts, etc. from all over the country.

The Chhatta Chowk or covered bazaar at the entrance of the
Red Fort (CNB 2011)

Shops at the Chhatta Chowk sell everything that tourists,
me included, would buy (DFH 2011)

So... I bought these bangles for 150 rupees, and some strings
of crystal beads (CNB 2011)

Within the Red Fort are 44 components of the Mughal period, the rest, intrusive British Army barracks built during the British rule and quite ruining the original Hayat-Bakhsh Garden. Including the above Chhatta Chowk, notable Mughal period buildings include the Naubat Khana, Diwan-i-Am, Asad Burj (the Lion Tower), Mumtaz Mahal, Rang Mahal, Khas Mahal, Diwan-i-Khas, Hammam (royal baths), Moti Masjid (Pearl Mosque), Sawan Pavilion, and Zafar Mahal.

The Naubat Khana or Drum House, where drums were played 5 times a day,
 that formed the formal entry to the forecourt of the Diwan-i-Am (CNB 2011)

Carved floral (daffodil?) designs at the Naubat Khana (CNB 2011)

At the Diwan-i-Am, where the Emperor meets his subjects.
This sandstone structure has a facade of 9 arches supported
on pillars (RMN 2011)

The multiple arches of the Diwan-i-Am (CNB 2011)

The marble canopy where the Emperor sat during proceedings at the Diwan-i-Am.
It is decorated in exquisite pietra dura (marble inlay), but you cannot really see it
well because it is covered in netting for conservation (CNB 2011)

On the left is the Moti Masjid and on the right, the Hammam
(CNB 2011)

The Palaces within the Fort were mainly of white marble, with beautiful floral motifs adorning the walls and pillars. The Diwan-i-Khas or Shah Mahal, 'if not the most beautiful, it is certainly the most highly ornamented of all Shahjahan's buildings' - James Fergusson. It was here that Shah Jahan sat on his Peacock Throne and had private audiences with his select ministers and noblemen of the highest rank. The Mumtaz Mahal which used to be the palace of Jahanara, daughter of Shah Jahan, is today the Archaeological Museum (since 1909). The Rang Mahal (literally Palace of Colour) 'was the largest apartment of the imperial seraglio' (harem). The Khas Mahal was the Emperor's private palace.

Pigeons flying over the Diwan-i-Khas or Shah Mahal.  (CNB 2011)

Exquisite detailing of the Diwan-i-Khas (CNB 2011)

Pietra dura (marble inlay) detail of a plant decoration at the
Diwan-i-Khas (CNB 2011)

Another flower decoration at the Diwan-i-Khas (CNB 2011)

Gilded ceiling of the Diwan-i-Khas (CNB 2011)

Marble screen with the scale of justice at the south end of
Khas Mahal (CNB 2011)

A beautiful screen at the KM (CNB 2011)

Note: After the above photo, my camera conked out so from now on with kind permission, I will be using pictures from DFH & RMN and those taken with my handphone camera.
Anyway for lunch we went to another Karim's Restaurant, this time in Nizamuddin West. For the very first time, we felt quite harrassed (by very, very persistant beggars with babes in arms) in the very crowded alleyways to get there and back to our transport. Although the Dargah Hazrat Nizamuddin (shrine of Sheikh Nizamuddin Aulia) was in the area, we did not have the guts to get to it. Another time, maybe. Dinner was our treat for DNA & DAW at Capri Italy, an Italian Restaurant of their choice, in Defence Colony A.

Lunch at Karim's Restaurant, Nizamuddin West (RMN 2011)

Dinner at Capri Italy (2011)

Day Five: Friday 4 November 2011

Jami-Masjid or Jama Masjid, 500m west of the Red Fort and the largest mosque in India, was our first itinerary of the day. To get there well before the Friday prayer crowd, we passed through Chandni Chowk (Moonlight Bazaar), once beautiful and 'renowned for its wide avenues, elegant caravanserais and fabulous Mughal gardens', but now a very chaotic traffic-choked thoroughfare with crumbling buildings and collapsing shop fronts.

This time at Jama Masjid, when a local guide Mr Wahid Ali offered his services, we hired him (after realising that yesterday we missed out so many interesting details at the Red Fort). We were glad we did, because without him we would not have been able to see the relics of the Prophet at the little museum there.

The Jama Masjid being readied for the Friday prayers (DFH 2011)

Pigeons in a corner of the Jama Masjid (DFH 2011)

The mosque museum keeper Syed Ehraz Ahmed showed us the Prophet's
relic - a strand of his beard (DFH 2011)

On the steps of a side entrance to Jama Masjid (DFH 2011)

Some tourists at the Jama Masjid have to don these colourful robes
(DFH 2011) 

After lunch at Saravan Bhavan in Janpath again, we visited another World Heritage site at Humayun's Tomb. Humayun was the second Mughal emperor who ruled from 1530 till 1539 when he was deposed by Sher Shah. But he was reinstated in 1555 and died soon after from a fall on the steps of his library at Purana Qila. His widow Haji/Bega Begum built his mausoleum in 1569.

Humayun's tomb/mausoleum (DFH 2011)

DFH & I at the Humayun's Tomb signage, frangipani in my hair.
Why? Why not? (RMN 2011)

At Humayun's Tomb, as with other historical monuments,
there were many school groups visiting (DFH 2011)

We had dinner at home with DNA before she left for Yangon, Myanmar. We really felt like 'the Arab & his camel' (if you know the story, you know what I mean).