Earlier in August we had been to the MMCV but we only had a walkabout then. (See my blog post 'A Glimpse of the Mah Meri, Pulau Carey' dated 25 August 2014). Recently A and I joined some Indonesian tourists in their visit program at the MMCV. Visitors are usually garlanded and 'crowned' on arrival with the beautifully woven wild pandanus leaves. Encik Rashid Esa, the Director of MMCV, then graciously greeted visitors with an introduction to the mystery or enigma that is the Mah Meri. Who are the Mah Meri people?
Some aspects of the culture of the Mah Meri were revealed to us. These included their marriage ceremony (with A and a Manado lady tourist being the unlikely couple in a simplified mock ceremony!). The Mah Meri traditional wedding involves seven rituals which may take up to four days; 'the engagement, henna colouring, tooth-filing, finding the bride, presentation of the bridal couple, dining ceremony and cleansing ritual'. It is thought that the Mah Meri marriage traditions and attire have not changed much since the 1950s.
The marriage ceremony is celebrated with 'blessings' and the 'Mayin Jo-oh' dance, accompanied by music rendered by instruments such as the tuntog (two sets of bamboo stampers), jule (viola), ambo (double-headed drum), and tawa' (brass gong) etc. The dancers wear the traditional costume made of bark and freshly woven pandanus skirts and accessories. The accessories on their fingers, across their chests and on their heads are very beautifully woven. They dance around the busut or 'ant hill/mountain' (but I forgot to ask about the significance of this item) and are joined by male dancers wearing traditional masks.
The very expressive masks of the male dancers provided some comic during the 'ceremony'. The ancestral spirits they represent must be in very good ... spirits, and celebrating as well. In fact it was a joyous celebration all around!
Visitors were invited to join in the Jo-oh dance at the end. The repetitive steps may seem easy to do but one does have to somehow 'get into the rhythm'.
During our visit, young Diana (named after Diana Ross apparently) was especially assigned to be the guide for A and me. We found out from her that she is in Sixth Form at a School in Teluk Panglima Garang (Hilariously translated as the Gulf of Fierce Commander in a travel website!)
Our special thank you to Encik Rashid Esa, Director of the Mah Meri Cultural Village, for enabling us to join this visit program.
References:
1. Peoples and Traditions (The Encyclopedia of Malaysia, volume 12). Archipelago Press, 2006. Ex Libris CNB 2081.
23 December 2014 (In Progress)
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